Maybe in Texas, but not in Ohio. Like I said, even with the starter jet drilled the fuel issue still will occur after about 2 weeks. It will be noticeable in a week, taking longer cranking time to start, but at 2 weeks - good luck trying to start without running the battery flat.

You guys just must have a more stable blend of gas due to the warmer climate versus at least those of us north of the Mason Dixon Line, possibly some a bit further south.

 

Ahh, no Mark, I was being charitable.. Harder starting after 2-3 days which gets progressively worse as the days pass.. It seems modern gas is very volatile along with the fact that its' moonshine content is hygroscopic.. And it's humid here most of the time..

Just google " is ethanol hygroscopic "....

 

So you guys get some crap fuel too.

Actually unless they were running ethanol in general pump gas in the early 80s, ethanol isn't the only issue. In the shop the decline in the stability of gas was noticeable, for sure, starting around 1982. It was commented on in publications as well, the common one being that as soon as Detroit got engines to run on the stuff blended, they'd jack them around more, usually EPA driven.

This is due to the injection of additives like butane into the fuel, which is increased for winter blends here in Ohio. Jalopnik has an article about winter blends. The gasses like butane will evaporate over time, making fuel less volatile - hard starting. There is always some butane in the fuel, but it gets jacked up for the winter up here. That may not be needed in the south. Butane being one of the volatiles, helps the gas fire, but it can evaporate rapidly. No problem with EFI, but not so good with carbs. Thus the reason for the Jalpnik article - street/hot rods gots carbs. Don't want to be tearin' down those three to six Strombergs too often.

In another article comparing evaporation of gasoline in ethanol and non-ethanol blends displays what I am talking about. Evaporation of various components that will decrease the volatility of the gas - aka make it not combust as easily, if at all. That is what I am talking about. E10 may contribute, but the starting issue existed long before E10 was th norm. We saw the problem in the early 80s.

I didn't mention the smell of the two week old gas from the float bowl, nothing like the fresh stuff in the tank. It smells more like years old junk.

Regardless of the cause, draining the float bowl to resolve the problem in an easy and expedient fashion. I crack the valve,put on my coat, helmet or just BS with buddies getting ready, close the valve and it fires instantly. Again, only needed after two weeks.

As said by others and I do this when the bike isn't going to sit, turn off the petcock and run most of the gas out of the float bowl before shutting off the bike. Then when you go to ride again, turn on the petcock and fresh stuff from the tank is there. I leave gas in the carb over the winter, drain it out in the spring. Just has worked for years and the one time I drained the bowl the float needle seized in the dry bore. So I leave it wet.

 

I run a small grass cutting company on the side. I've taken to running premium fuel in the majority of my equipment and toys. I had way too many problems with bad gas and gummed up carbs. The premium fuel I buy from Shell has no ethanol and since I switched I haven't had any issues.

 

What can I say... Maybe something with the blends south of the border, I've had the starting problems even with 93 since 1997 with the 650 as have other friends with 650s. Ethanol or not.

 

When I'm going riding on my KLX I roll it out put pan under vent hose open carb drain for
a few seconds close it up put screwdriver away hit start button and it starts right away. I do this every time it sets over three days. It works[the drain thing] on all my cycles 2&4 strokes. On a 88 Honda CR 500 had to do it every day. Just like Klxter said, drain it start it.

All I run is the 92 /93 stuff.