Why is my KLX250s hard to start after it sits for more than a few days?
Got out, lots of leaves on the ground and road, trees getting bare, kind of mourning the fact that it will be another 12 months until we see the colors again...
Now to buckle down for several months of crappy cold... It would be different if I still lived in an area where the terrain actually changed elevation and roads actually needed turn speed signs. I rode 10 months a year minimum when living in the hills of the east, even if it was just some errands once a week.
Now to buckle down for several months of crappy cold... It would be different if I still lived in an area where the terrain actually changed elevation and roads actually needed turn speed signs. I rode 10 months a year minimum when living in the hills of the east, even if it was just some errands once a week.
Just reread the decade old Deej string about shutting the fuel off and running the bowl dry. I usually do that when I won't be on the bike for a few days, but like everyone else I occasionally have good intentions of riding again soon and I don't shut the fuel off. As you all know, the drain on the bowl can be hard to reach and mine doesn't seat well, so I plugged the short piece of drain hose. This got me thinking: why not install an in-line fuel shut-off valve in the drain line a little below the bowl (and leave the drain screw open)? This would be much easier to reach and would allow the bowl to drain with no tools. Any downside to this approach?
spencer………you……u on adv
Just reread the decade old Deej string about shutting the fuel off and running the bowl dry. I usually do that when I won't be on the bike for a few days, but like everyone else I occasionally have good intentions of riding again soon and I don't shut the fuel off. As you all know, the drain on the bowl can be hard to reach and mine doesn't seat well, so I plugged the short piece of drain hose. This got me thinking: why not install an in-line fuel shut-off valve in the drain line a little below the bowl (and leave the drain screw open)? This would be much easier to reach and would allow the bowl to drain with no tools. Any downside to this approach?
Just reread the decade old Deej string about shutting the fuel off and running the bowl dry. I usually do that when I won't be on the bike for a few days, but like everyone else I occasionally have good intentions of riding again soon and I don't shut the fuel off. As you all know, the drain on the bowl can be hard to reach and mine doesn't seat well, so I plugged the short piece of drain hose. This got me thinking: why not install an in-line fuel shut-off valve in the drain line a little below the bowl (and leave the drain screw open)? This would be much easier to reach and would allow the bowl to drain with no tools. Any downside to this approach?
Hose getting pulled off and a big fuel leak.
If I forget to drain the bowl and its not wanting to start, I close the petcock, lay the bike down for 10 seconds or so for the fuel to dump out the overflow, then pick it back up. Reopen the petcock for fresh fuel and start it up.
Potential for leakage as said above.
Hose getting pulled off and a big fuel leak.
If I forget to drain the bowl and its not wanting to start, I close the petcock, lay the bike down for 10 seconds or so for the fuel to dump out the overflow, then pick it back up. Reopen the petcock for fresh fuel and start it up.
Hose getting pulled off and a big fuel leak.
If I forget to drain the bowl and its not wanting to start, I close the petcock, lay the bike down for 10 seconds or so for the fuel to dump out the overflow, then pick it back up. Reopen the petcock for fresh fuel and start it up.

As you know IDRIDR, water in the gas and such is not the problem with the KLX cold start...at least not generally. If it were so, you would have seen most all carbed bikes consistently having this issue of hard cold starts after sitting for just a short period. The small starter jet is the issue, and enlarging it permanently solves the problem.
While other issues can aggravate this problem...imperfect fuel level...low volatility fuel...moisture...KACR...etc...it's the fact that the too small a fuel supply into the choke circuit is the overriding cause in most cases. Many KLX's are on the ragged edge of getting an ample fuel supply to the choke circuit, so any small disruption in some of the elements I just described can cause hard cold starts.
However, those who still insist on doing the hokey-pokey, shake-ur-KLX dance...here you go.
You put your left foot in, you put your left foot out, you put your left foot in, and you shake it all about....C'mon everyone, sing along...
Well, there is the possibility that all carb'd bikes do suffer harder starting with stale fuel - all mine do, but only for the last 35 years..
FYI: 100LL really does not go stale - I steal it outta my AV GAS supply for bikes that get ridden monthly..
FYI: 100LL really does not go stale - I steal it outta my AV GAS supply for bikes that get ridden monthly..


