Today i started to strip my KLX to rebuild it with a BB Kit and a Bill blue head, Racetech fork upgrade. Bigger tank. Nightmare getting the FMF exhaust silencer off. Now it has a few dents in it which im not happy about. (With a rubber mallet)

 

I cleaned up all parts after removing cylinder head and cylinder. Found a couple of problems with my replacement cylinder head.

I bought a head from a 2009 (Carb bike from the states which i sent to Bill Blue to have ported and bigger valves fitted. I have now come to fit my BB kit and head. Alas the head is slightly different. The Rubber mount for the EFI throttle body on my 2010 does not fit the 2009 carb head. The centres of the bolts on my head are 75mm where as the carb head is 63mm. Any suggestions how to get past this problem???

My 2010 EFI (Asia model ) Also has a Temp sensor on the head. On the ported head there is a blanking plug. But the thread size is different. I could drill and tap it out to the right thread. But the Temp probe would sit 10 mm more into the water jacket. I am concerned that it may impede water flow and cause a hot spot. Anyone have any experience with this ?

I will wait to see if any of you guys have any feed back before i start modifying the carb head.

Fitted piston rings while waiting.

Cheers

 

This is the wrong thread to post your problem to..

I would start a new thread with a title that describes your problem..

 

If what he wrote is what he in fact did to his bike then could this thread not be appropriate based on the thread name? Just sayin.

 

I think his post is "appropriate" based on what he posted and the title of the thread.... BUT

What I think Klxster is getting at is that Subseageorge is looking for help with a specific problem and that isn't really the focus of this thread... meaning that although he may get help here... he'll get more help creating his own thread about the issue.

You can drive a screw into wood with a hammer (I've done it...lol), but you will get better results using a screwdriver *grin


On Topic: A couple weeks ago I bumped up to a 49 tooth rear sprocket and new 110 link DID chain, added a Doubletake mirror, installed Gold Valves in the forks, and found out my 'reserve' hose must be kinked as I my bike acts like it's fuel starved on reserve (luckily I was close to home).

 

Put my 14T front sprocket back on, tried out a 13T but wasnt for me, too many revs at 55mph and the 330 kit pulls the 14/39 combo just fine.

Went to 146 MJ and 40 pilot, also put on a Nelson Rig adventure tank bag CL-1050, highly recommend, they do make a smaller CL-1045 i think thats more suited for our bikes, but the bigger one isnt too large, and it holds a fair amount.

 

What rpms were you running at 60 with the 14/39 tooth?

 

I'll have to check because i forget but i think a little above 5500, the 13t brought it up +~500rpm or so. Maybe ok at 55 but 60/65 it got noticeable.

Just not much gain down low to sacrifice a little cruising comfort, to me anyway, i dont ride many technical trails. I blow through the gears and then im cruising thinking...I could be spinning 5500 instead of 6K+ right now.... In fact I kind of want to try a 15T for the kind of riding I do

 

I have done 15/39 with the 330. It's great if riding 60 plus. I liked 15/42 for duelsport so I switched to 14/39 (same as 15/42). This way if l know I will be on a long road trip 50 or faster I got the 15.

​​​​​​​All with stock chain.

 

Good deal! I think for my commuting 14/39 is about perfect. Did the stock chain guard/guide still fit with the 15t? In talking about the little metal piece that hovers above the front sprocket, between the plastic cover and the engine, it looks mighty close even with just the 14