My bad on the spring colors. I messed with both my s and the gf's sf. I am sure I have a red spring around here from the sf. Let me know if you want it. Ill send it out and you can owe me a favor. Now that I think about it I think I have a black spring from motopro on the sf. Its much stiffer than original as I am 250#

 

A few name suspension tuners have told me you shouldn't mess with it introducing an unknown such as lowering links. The best way to lower is thru limiting the travel but it's expensive. Changing leverage ratios without flow-benching or real testing is hit or miss in terms of suspension performance but if you need to lower the height and ride casual trails or dirt roads\roads, you'd be fine. I tried the devol lowering links on my 2stroke wr250 and couldn't get the handling I wanted so it went off to a trusted tuner. He asked me to go back to the stock links and revalved for my abilities. It was great! You could say he had an interest in me just using his revalving but if something works over the other idea, I'm usually sold.
Plus how would you know if lowering the triple clamps will match the lowering effect of rear lowering links? If you don't ride aggressively offroad, you'll most probably never realize a degradation in handling.

 

Wife just bought a 2010 250s. She ordered the 1'3/4" link. You can only drop the front so far on most shocks(safely) by dropping the fork tubes. More than an inch or so down, and the fork tubes are narrower. Progressive suspension makes "shims" to be installed for the front and rear of most bikes. This will decrease the travel of the shock, so you give up some shock travel(how much up and down), for a lowered ride height. I have had good luck with lowering links. I haven't dropped any bike more than 2" though. One other route is to find a set of shocks with a shorter tube length. Sometimes the supermoto shocks are shorter. I havent checked on this bike though. There is an adjustable lowering link that does 1" to 4" of dropping. These links looked pretty crappy though.
Wife is 5'3", so almost any worthy bike needs to be adjusted somehow for her height. Looks like the seat height is around 35" unloaded. Way to high for her, but hopefully can manage. As said in other posts, set your sag, remeasure then decide if a link or other solution is needed.
****Pro tuners are xpensive.........My ex-Baja bikes suspension work was around 3500(PC) when all was said and done*****You won't need all that work, but a pro tuner can help A LOT. It's all about suspension and getting the power to the ground and keeping it there!!!!!! Lots of good suggestions in this topic!!

 

I know lots of people lower these bikes, but man, I don't see how they ride off road with them. Compared to dirt bikes I've had in the past, my KLX rides super low. I bash into enough stuff at the skid plate and footpegs that I couldn't imagine getting down most trails if it was any lower. I think it also becomes a bit of a safety issue for feet and ankle injuries. The KLX is already a low bike...at least relatively speaking...so if one has to lower it I'd recommend nothing much gnarlier than a dirt road or smoothly groomed trail. A lowered KLX will hang up on everything on real singletrack trail.

 

The colors are an OEM kawi thing and don't really mean anything beyond that. You can get a stiffer spring in any color you'd like.

I will agree with TNC that this bike is already too low and I only have a 32" inseam. Perhaps it just has a fat belly since the seat height is pretty high but the belly hangs low enough to put a good amount of damage to the skid plate and to bend the hell out of the footpegs. For off-road, get used to the height, this bike is not too tall. For on-road, sure, lower the heck out of it.

 

Piepie, if you look at the forks you will see that they stick up past the triple clamps[trees]. I put 1.5" lowering links. I'm not going to ride it fast enough to worry about it. Altho it dose seem to set up pert good for some sliding around the corners. I have my KTM 520 lowered a bit but it was done internally. The KTM goes way faster than I need to.

I have a 28" inseam so low is good; riding the goat trails my buds seem to like to take me on.

The links made it a bit softer on the back, going to try a bit more pre-load and turn in the comp. a little.

 

It all depends on how you are going to use the bike, that determines what you may or may not want to do with the Suspension and/or ride height. As mentioned, Sag is very important. You'll also never appreciate how much better the front end can be in ride quality until you upgrade to an appropriately-responsive fast compression valving in the front....gotta consult an expert on that one...MotoPro makes good ones, Racetech, ProAction, perhaps others.

Take a Motorcycle Safety Course immediately, if you haven't taken it recently. It could save your life.

 

I lowered mine, and I ride a lot of single track, usually really fast. If you put on a lowering link, you can reduce the sag from 4" to 3". That will drop the bike at rest, but keep a similar ride height. When I put my link on, I had to increase the preload and reduce the sag because I was catching my pegs on some ruts, but I also found it too soft.

I really like the way it is now. After experimenting, I ended up with 124 mm link, 3" sag, and the forks up in the clamps as far as they would go.
Now I'm comfortable stopping on off camber, and uneven ground. I'm 5'7"/160 with a 30" inseam, and my bike is an 07.