but those noises on that video are horrible.

 

I'd say that piston skirt breakage is a bit freak circumstance. I'd tend to bet the bits may have also caused the chain breakage too?

Good example of why one should never believe the line - "Kaw engines are all noisy, don't worry about it."

Regardless, if cam drive noise comes about, one can pop the cam cover off the top and check for any chain damage. Then if all checks out, put in a manual tensioner. If it's the tensioner the noise will go away when warmed up, plus it's about the least expensive and invasive initial fix. Kind of like the KLR "dohicky". If the noise is still there, start looking deeper - might be something like a broken piston skirt and junk floating around in the engine. good thing none of that junk got wedged into the gear box or there might have been some center case issues too.

Looks like 351 kit time to me!

 

No i actually broke the skirt off out side the engine so that was good.

 

Hi glade you guys revived the topic. Well on the problem with my tensor i do have its built klx 678 couldn't of done a better job. the problem i have is installing it. i can't tell if too tight or too lose i can kinda tell i the idle but im not sure when its exactly the right taut. i notice the idle sound will decrease the tighter i get it but not completely die or drown just get a bit quieter sound. thank you once again for sure a great custom part. couldn't be happier Klx678

 

I would use the cold adjust method if you aren't sure. When the engine is cold turn the engine over while tightening the tensioner by hand. I guarantee you won't overtighten it by hand. Once tight, back it out 1/8 turn and lock it down. That slight loosening will allow for the thermal expansion of the engine when hot. It may tick lightly when cold, but will be quiet when hot. You do not want it tight enough to start to cut down the idle. Optimum is to have only the play adjusted out of the cam chain, not having any extra tension on it. The term "cam chain tensioner" is actually a misnomer. It should be a "cam chain adjuster".

I'd rather have a tiny bit of slack than too tight. The difference is when the stock tensioner fails it actually floats in and out allowing a huge amount of cam chain play - the loud rattling you hear. When my 650 cam chain is loose with the manual tensioner I can hear a light ticking sound when hot. Nothing remotely close to the clatter from the junked out OEM set up.

In other words, back out the tensioner enough to adjust by hand, then readjust it while cold. I tried to twist a socket on my inch/pound torque wrench to see if I could get a reading with full grip - no dice. So finger tightening will not overdo it.

 

everything runs great man thank you