That's hard to say. The only sure thing is that a manual adjuster will set the tension at a precise point, and it will stay at that point. It's actually quite fascinating to hear the varying noise levels as you set a manual adjuster. If you play with it a bit, even the subtle noise when the chain is the tiniest bit loose can be detected and effectively tuned out with the adjuster. It was probably back in the 70's since I had messed with a manual tensioner, and it was on multicylinder bikes. Apparently the harmonic feedback from a single with a long cam chain is somewhat different. It's almost violent compared to a multicylinder engine IMO.

A perfect automatic tensioner would be the best, but something's not quite right with many of the ones in the KLX. I also wonder why there are two spring loaded tensioners in the KLX and some other models. That one on the bottom has no adjustment but is alway exerting some tension into the guide block and cam chain. You'd think this secondary tension working in concert with the autotensioner would keep everything happy. It doesn't always.

 

I guess I'll just wait and see. With the aluminum skidplate on it, the engine noises are amplified. I'm sure I'd hear it if it gets squirrelly. Then again, if I get bored, I might just order a manual one and do it anyway! I do like tinkering.

 

It's not a catastrophic failure when it does quit working right, so it's not like you'd get stranded. Or even have to park the bike immediately.

Even though I sell the tensioners my opinion is - "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

Leave it alone, it may do fine. If it goes bad, dump it.

TNC, I think that middle spring may be pretty strong and acts like a sort of "cush hub" like effect in extreme circumstances.

 

Can't beat that kind of advice from a knowledgeable source! If I get bored, I may do it sometime anyway....

 

I just finished a 4000 km trip on my bike. I had to ride 1000k of pavement to get to the start of the trails. I am talking about 2 full days of 6.5 to 7 k rpm. When I got to Kalispell I could here the chain rattling like a gatlin gun!! when I started it up in the morning it was sounding pretty loose inside that little motor. I was concerned but figured that if the bike came apart on me it would just be part of the adventure so I hit the trails and sometime in the next few hours the noise went away and now that I am home I start the bike up and she sounds like new. Pretty dam marvelous motor if you ask me. I would just let it ride and see what happens.

 

red, now that's what I was talking about. The stock tensioner is inconsistent. Yours sounded like it may have slipped on the ratchet but then later took up the slack back to normal. That's probably not the last time that will happen. And when it happens, that sucks just a little more life out of the chain. Plus it actually affects the performance a bit through the cam timing. It's interesting how when adjusting the manual adjuster, there's a small range of movement that actually affects the idle.

 

I wonder if, as the chain wears more the tensioner takes longer to adjust after the third or fourth time? I haven't really looked at how it works. I imagine over tightening the chain with a manual adjuster could be as bad as having it a bit too loose?

 

Yeah, I don't think there's much history or info to qualify what will happen if it's too tight, but it can't be good...I'd bet rapid guide block, chain, and gear wear. However, I think you'd really have to be clueless to crank down the manual tensioner to that degree. I played with my tensioner quite a bit to make sure I had the concept down pat before deciding to keep using it. If you keep turning the adjuster in after that silent sweet spot is found, the idle is affected noticeably, so you almost have a built in warning system.

 

So, how will you tell when you need to make an adjustment?

 

Good question...I wondered the same. I keep mileage records for the purpose of oil and other service needs. If I don't hear what I know or suspect is a slightly loose cam chain, I'll just schedule to do it every 3000 miles. I say that now, but if it goes 3000 miles without any noise, and when I loosen the adjuster and can tell by the noise that the chain was still well within the proper adjustment, I may go further on the mileage next time. That said, this is really an easy procedure and takes little time or hassle.

Here's what I think will happen. Since you can get the adjuster dialed in perfectly by the engine-running noise method, I seriously doubt the chain is going to develop much slack except what comes with just plain old normal wear. Even in your scenario, it's clear that many or most of these tensioners aren't as consistent as they should be. My bike received excellent care by the previous owner who I know personally, and the chain was apparently worn out sometime during that period. I just didn't know what a loose KLX cam chain really sounded like. This cam chain should not wear out before 10000 miles...period.