Thanks, probably an option on the KLX if a manual adjuster or new cam chain doesnt change things. Good info to file away.
Dan

 

Before removal I safety wired it to no effect just to see how much difference it made, might try that 1st.

 

i shoved a screw driver in mine til it clicked.. it was a very quite click but i almost have no noise now.

 

OMG X INFINITY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! After rattling for 2 years, I finally decided to try the manual adjustment, and the noise was totally gone, as in perfectly quiet! Thanks guys, you are awesome.!!!

The wife and her girlfriends headed out for a ride, and I thought well instead of sitting around, how about trying to fix the bike. Well I have to say thanks to all who have posted in all the posts relating to cam chain noise. Finally its quiet again.

Oh and since I mentioned the wife and her friends, here is a picture. Mine is the wife on her blue 2006 XT 225 with her eyes closed...LOL, the other bikes are a 2002 XT 225 and a 2003 XT 225.

 

Good Times Bro, enjoy Thanks for the pic

 

Started the bike up this morning, and it was sooooooo quiet. Usually a cold start is where it was the loudest. I gotta get used to different sounds now. LOL

 

For those who want to go to manual tensioners, the bodies are going to be cut within the next week and a half. I have to write the directions for installation and adjustment, then they'll be available.

I'd really like to find someone here near Columbus who has the chain noise where I could personally put one in and see what it takes to adjust it. Anyone out there near Columbus, Coshocton, or New Philadelphia Ohio?

 

I'll take one since my tensioner has proven to not work well. Just clicked it today with an allan wrench stuck in the hole. Bike is so much more silent now.
I'm going to go ahead and order a new cam chain for the winter tear-down anyways, might as well throw the new tensioner on too.
Man, the bike will be getting a nice overhaul this winter

 

CL, the manual tensioner is well made and simple. I think the biggest problem for me was figuring out a really good way to access the adjuster bolt for a good engine-running method. My Muzzy header pipe diameter and the angle at which it ran in relationship to the adjuster bolt really made it difficult. That hot head pipe made things interesting. Some bikes with different pipes or even just OEM pipes may be easier to access the adjuster. Mark opted to use an allen head nut on the end of the adjuster now, and with the right tools it made doing a hot engine-running method downright easy. A ball-end 6mm allen wrench made access easier.

 

Better to wait and see if I get the death-rattle, or pro-actively replace the auto adjuster?