It seems like a good aftermarket manual tensioner is needed for the KLX 250s given all of the chain noise issues.
TNC- It's great to hear that you and Mark are working on a tensioner. Are there other manual tensioners available?

I am going to do an oil change tomorrow, so I think that I'll pull the tensioner to give it a look over and reset it. I can just reset the tensioner and reinstall, right? By reset, I mean push the plunger all the way in, or is there a better technique?

All the information is great! Maybe given the popularity of this topic, the mods might make a sticky with links to the many threads on engine noise, cam chain noise, cam chain guids, etc. Just a thought.

***I know that there is a downloadable service manual for the 09 KLX 250s on the forum, but what is the best manual for an 06 KLX 250s?

 

Yes, every part that I used was from Kawasaki (OEM). Also, I did not add this when I did the chain and lucked out. But it would be a good idea to replace the case gasket as well. They really weren't meant to be reused, but I really careful not to tear mine.

 

Higgs, interesting to read about your work on the tensioner.

I took the 12mm bolt out today and tried to push on the tensioner with a fair amount of force, but it wouldn't budge. I then removed the assembly completely to inspect the tensioner plunger and all looked good, maybe 1/3 extended. So I reset the unit and reinstalled.
I'm pretty sure that the sound is still there, but I guess that it is something that I will have to live with until I open up the top end for valve clearance inspection. When I'm in there I'll look further into the cause of the noise.

Any other ideas?

 

Best time to dink with the tensioner is when your doing the valve insp and have the motor at TDC-compression. This way there is no load on the chain from the valve spring compression.

Manual adjusters are fail proof (if the jam nut doesn't get loose) but you need a "feel" to get them adjusted right. Talking to owners that struggle with simple bolt torque I'm not sure they are for everyone. A simple instruction of snug then back off 1/4 turn or something may work, but they are best set with the motor running and by feel and sound. Those that have used them or had old bikes with them can relate.

 

Mine still makes noise at 14,400 miles.

 

Tensioner information:

I can't find how to link the thread i read before doing the adjustment, but you can find it here: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ight=tensioner

I searched "tensioner" and it's under the thread "Still Ticking". you'll see on the last page of the thread that it's worked for a few people who have since put on a ton of miles and still no ticking!

 

Deej, did you do the adjustment? or did you replace the tensioner all-together? (I read through your replies in the other thread)

 

I had a similar issue to Dan888 - a very loud metallic tapping noise at idle, but less so at speed. I started to notice it maybe around 5000 miles and it slowly got louder over time. Then one time around 9500 miles, I adjusted the idle speed a little higher and started the engine. It hammered loud as ever for three or four seconds and then stopped altogether and hasn't come back since. Now the engine makes the faint whirring, clock ticking sound that sounds like a very healthy engine should.

I'm not very mechanical so I don't have the faintest idea what happened, but the bike ran well the last several times I had it out.

 

Interesting. I notice these bikes also make a little bit of clutch noise too once they get a few miles on them. Idle speed seems to affect that issue. Still, I think most of the piston slap/knocking sound that many of us hear is that cam chain. When I got mine quite enough with a new chain, that's when I first heard the somewhat subtle clutch rattle.

 

On my klr the noise was the decompression device, it had got loose enough it was tossing it's spring. After a few times I removed it completely and have never looked back.