I had the same problem. I just ended up with my air hammer with a dull chisel and hit it once on the back side of the nut (larger part). Brrrrpp! Came right off with no damage.
Hope that helps,
db

 

got r done...bought a 18-inch strongarm, 1 1/16 inch impact socket (6-point) and a can of liquid wrench..left the bike off the jack until I had the nut loosened..I think that helped some too..friend sat on bike, brake on and CRACK it finally came loose...took it for a ride on some tight trails, hills, roots, rocks, etc and loved it. really a big difference off road and as I read more power to accelerate up the hills..thanks guys for the advice

 

OK, I think that my CS nut was probably on as tight as anyone could ever get it.

Actually, I have had the nut off before when I swapped the stock 14T for a 13T -- and I know that I torqued it back on to spec.

So now I want to go from a 13/42 setup to a 14/49 setup, so I'll put the stock 14T back on. Got the new rear 49T and a new chain and proceeded to take off the front nut. NO WAY. I tried everything:

- putting a 3/8" ratchet extension over the swingarm and through the rear sprocket -- ended up indenting the swing arm and bending the rear sprocket after using a six foot piece of conduit over a 18" 1/2" drive breaker bar

- went out an bought a 300 ft-lb capable electric impact wrench - didn't have a 6 pt. socket and ended up rattling much of the chrome plating off of the socket

- got a big buddy to sit on the bike, standing on the brake --ended up being able to overcome his weight and the brake with the 6 foot extension

Decided that I wasn't going to get it off the normal way. Remember that the nut has sort of a flange on the back side of it?



I figured that I could carefully cut off the flange with a cutting wheel on the dremel tool to relieve the pressure.

With that thought in mind, I ordered a new nut and washer because I'm going to destroy them.

I saw that the parts will arrive tomorrow, so proceeded with my surgery. It went suprisingly well and took only about 10-15 minutes to cut off the flange. I was really suprised that after doing this the nut spun by hand!

The photo shows that I cut the washer too, but I really didn't need to. I didn't hurt the output shaft or anything else.



Now how in the world did it get so tight?????

I have a theory. Some of you may remember my mudhole incident, where a rock got lodged in the rear chain guide and I ended up spinning my clutch.
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/m_141059/tm.htm

I figure that the while the wheel was locked up, the engine, with its full torque, tightened that nut up before moving on to and destroying the clutch.

Anyway I got it off now and will get the new gearing set up soon.

 

More fallout from the mudhole event. While swapping the rear sprocket I discovered that the chain adjuster got mushed. Either this happened then or while I was trying to get the CS nut free. Note the deformed number 5 and circle cutout.

 

Oh well, #6 looks pretty good. Got any room for tightening? Not a big difference between 5 & 6. Just don't go below 2 1/4" of slack.

 

It's good enough right now. 60mm of slack. I'll include the adjuster on the next order to ronayers and replace it then (whenever that is)- nothing urgent for now.

 

I couldn't get mine off even with an air gun, I took it to the dealer. I have tried since they put it back on and I still cant get it off [:@]

 

I used one of these and it knocked the nut loose in 2 seconds. No damage. I tried with a 1/2 impact and breaker bar and wife holding brakes etc with no luck. You can get a cheap air hammer chisel.


Hope that helps,
db

 

mooredan,

just curious, but is the tire still running true with the damaged adjuster?..something Iwould keep an eye on

 

Yeah, I thought about that too.

I measuredthe runoutwith a dial guage and found it to be around 0.040" (~ 1.0mm). The standard is a runout of 0.8mm (0.031") with a service limit of 2.0mm (0.078").

Thanks for the QA check. (Quality Assurance)