Just got the Power Commander Fuel Controller and Dynojet sent recommended settings for the Yoshimura Slip On and open airbox lid.

• Get the Maps.
• Select the Map Position #1 fuel table.
• Copy all table cell values.
• Paste those table cell values into the Map Position #2 fuel table.
• Keep all of those table cells selected.
• Hit the Page Up key 4 times.
• Then just select the cells that represent the middle third of the total RPM range (3750-7250). Hit the Page up key 4 times.
• Then select the table cells that represent the upper third of the total RPM range(7250-11000). Hit the Page Up key 6 times.
• Send that new table into Map Position #2.
• Set the Base potentiometer to Map Position #2.
• Set the low, mid, and high potentiometers to zero.
• Ride it like you stole until the wheels fall off. Bob's your uncle.

I'll let you know how it foes.

 

Easy Peasy, Really not that bad. How does she run now? I'm gonna try and dial in a Mikuni 36-68 with the Chinese bore, doubt it will be any easier. The future...

 

So that amounts to +4% below 3750rpm, +8% up to 7250rpm, and +10% up to the top.

I don't suppose they told you when they'd be getting any proper dyno tuned maps for this thing?

See attached map of the euro bike with leo vince pipe and no air filter (of course euro base fueling is probably different, so I wouldn't base a map on that)

 

Increasing fueling by 10X in the upper 1/3 rd of the RPM range does mimic my findings during lidless dyno testing - Going lidless offers a radical increase in airflow and attending increase in power levels.. Realization of the increases offered are dependent on the exhaust system components chosen..

 

I just rode it around the block and it definitely pulls stronger. There is some loud popping on deceleration but only when the bike is cold. After a couple minutes it goes away. I wish I had a dyno.

KLXster did you mean increasing fuel by 10X or +10%? The max increase at any point in the rev range or throttle position from the PCFC is +10%. Are you suggesting less fuel in the top 1/3 of the RPM range?

 

Ok, this is beyond our data - so we have to make guesses.. Here goes..

Lidless+slipon requires well over a %10 larger main jet - it requires nearly a %30 larger main jet than the DJ132 in the DJ kits..
Lidless + full performance exhaust requires a main jet %40 larger than the DJ132 in the kits..

Since we don't have any idea what the PCFC is doing - other than adding or subtracting fueling - we can only make guesses...

Since they are having you "max out" the fueling in the upper range, it remains to be seen if +%10 is going to be enough - it certainly may not be..

If it seems to run ok - and it will, the KLX 250 engine will "absorb" all kinds of crazy fueling without a fuss - then only a dyno run will show the correctness of the fueling..

A good rule'o thumb: When in doubt, add more fuel first, before removing fuel, on a fully "uncorked" KLX 250..

 

Assuming the fueling is close, you should have noticed that it's now a "rocket ship" when you snap and hold WOT from 6k rpm, to 10,500 rpm, in the first 3 gears.

 

Thought I would drop this here. Might be of interest.

A local guy just posted on Facebook about his AHL 300cc upgrade. He swapped the stock fuel injector for a Ninja 650 injector; stock ECU. So far no problems to note, though it’s still early.

No idea of what year his bike is or any other details other than an Asian KLX.

 

the PCFC should do +250% or -100% (although +250% at high rpm ranges would probably make your injector go static.. you are definitely limited by injector size)

nothing about your venturi fueling will really relate in any meaningful way to the amount of fuel you have to skew an existing VE table by when airflow increases, they are just too different

 

Hi rfesu,

Thanks for the info. Where did you get the +250% number?

According to the KLX250 PCFC manual (.pdf link) the dials allow for +-10%, but it doesn't say what the max is using the software.