Well, lets do-up Dyno's 101 and my Dyno testing...

All my testings were on the same Dyno, same operator, same method of operations, same everything. And I personally monitored all aspects of the setup and the actual testing - For instance, I was standing at the console monitoring the runs - 10 inches away from the operator sitting on my bike..

Most importantly: My dyno shop/owner/operator had no "dog in the fight" - I was not buying anything from them, or having them work on my bike, or having them tune my bike, etc etc. I did all tuning and tune development at home, and purchased all parts online - I rented the dyno for "verification of results" when my dynobutt indicated that I had achieved a significant improvement..

I know of all the secret tricks that can be used to create flawed data. I will not spell them out here, BUT highly effective trickery can be done in plain sight! Just underinflate a rear tire, leave the chain dry and unlubed, run a baseline - then air up the tire, lube and exercise the chain, re-dyno... At least a 5% boost is immediately seen ! None of this nonsense occurred with my bike. For instance: I personally kept 30 psi in the rear tire during all dyno testing, and oiled the chain before riding to the shop...

Ambient conditions do not affect SAE power curves. When a chart shows " CF: SAE" in the top right corner, all data is corrected to the SAE Standard Day - 77F, 29.23 InHg, 0% humidity. So, regardless of whether it is 100F or 40F in the dyno room, SAE J1349 algorithms used in the dyno software will alter the power data for this Standard Day... This, along with the proven outstanding homogeneity of of properly maintained DynoJet 250 series dynos' is the reason why SAE DJ250 series dyno charts can be directly compared throughout the world and throughout time ( Again, if properly maintained and running current software..)

These are just some of the facts pertaining to this subject - do with them as you like.. I do not expect the dyno propaganda infested minds of everyone to be healed, but I encourage all to take the time to know what you are talking about..

I encourage any member to contact me before dynoing so that I can prepare you for the event properly. I suppose I should do-up a thread with this "dyno prep" knowledge..

Sorry for the Trumpish attitude..

 

Why the big hard on about some simple cam timing? Don't like it or don't think it works, don't use it.

By the way take the time to LOOK at a dyno chart. They usually start around 3000 and plot everything up to and beyond redline. The ones done on the MCM versus stock showed increased power delivery from 3000 rpm to the torque peak. ALL of it, not just the highest. My butt dyno said the same thing. Marcelino's explanation, which matched up with information I'd read years earlier by Joe Minton and the dyno charts he had showed the increased mid range up to the peak torque level. Sold me on it. Unfortunately I think Marcelino's charts are gone.

Funny thing about what can be learned by a dyno chart when read correctly. My friend had his modified V-Max dynoed. He saw the results and the dyno operator says "Who built your engine?" with total seriousness. My friend says, "It's a 42,000 mile engine with a Kerker pipe and stage 4 jetting, why? It only did 90 hp." My friend was obviously disappointed. The dyno operator says, "Sure it's only 90 hp, but look at that torque curve!" The engine torque curve was virtually a plateau from 3000 to red line! That's usable power, the guy knew what he was looking at and he was amazed it wasn't built up, just a pipe, jetting, and pods.. His bike was a rocket from about any point he twisted the throttle. Dyno charts can show it all.

 

Well said Mark..

Unfortunately, I cannot provide large amounts of data on MCM vs Stock Cam timings... I did cobble together one chart that shows one instance of my bike ( MCM with an incomplete tune) and Houstons4 bike (Non-MCM with a competed tune). Both bikes are running lidless + stock header + loud slipons - Houstons4 bike is running the latest (and final) version of my Lidless CVK setup - My bike was still in tune development, running DJ136/5N, which now, would be considered a totally crazy / stupid setup - too rich below 6500 rpm and too lean above !

So, this chart should be used to form an idea of the TRQ curve differences - Not to make definitive conclusions. For instance: MCM certainly produces better TRQ curves with better numbers - when fueled properly - than my bike, below in blue, did.. The MCM loss in the upper RPM's is most definitely not "real", but is a symptom of improper fueling from the incomplete tune in my bike (at that time)..

Here is the link to the thread - https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...timings-44296/

 

Hi. Am a newbie from UK with a 2009 fi model. Will your documents be relevant to me and how do I get to them? Thanks.

 

As said, in my signature at the bottom of the page are the links.

None of the jetting information will be relevant for obvious reasons, but click on the link to D. Pippin's site at the top under the title. A lot of the bits and pieces things like bolt ons will be if the accessories are bolt on, as many are, or available for your model year.

The one on the Marcelino Cam Timing Modification is relevant to you, because Marcelino did the mod on a Euro model with EFI and if you look at the thread, I don't think he had to do anything with the EFI, it had the capacity to adjust for any change. It is essentially free mid-range power, only costing the time to do the job.

One thing he did, that I doubt is necessary, was to re-time the compression release. The compression release can be removed, the starter is totally capable of turning the engine over sufficiently to start it. I tested mine out at 3°F (-16°C), cranked over fine and fired up easily. You can either remove the compression release from the exhaust cam or disable it by removing the spring, when the shoes throw all the way out it is disengaged, without the spring they throw out virtually instantly.

Hope that helps. Look for the Marcelino thread in the stickies in the KLX250 sub-forum here. A lot was discussed, Marcelino's pictures disappeared, but the information is relevant and my link for it uses Marcelino's pictures.