I have lately purchased a 1983 KZ750F LTD Shaft Drive (4 cylinder, not the twin). I pulled the carburetor out because the guy that I bought it from could only get it to run by tinkering with the choke, and for only a short period of time.

Once the carburetor was pulled, carburetor out, I noticed that the carb idle screw (located on the bottom of the carburetor) was not even touching the unit! Yikes, could have this been my only issue here?

Anyways, I used 2 cans of carburetor cleaner, and a lot of compressed air to ensure all was dried out after the treatment. I adjusted nothing.

Put the carburetor back on the bike, where I started having issues with setting up the carburetor (linkage cables). Once I got it all together, I turned over the key & the carburetor started racing, but with a very smooth run, problem is it was running smooth at 6,500 RPM. After removing the carburetor 4 times and spinning the unit around the linkage cable, I realized I could just remove the cable from the throttle leaver and spin the cable with caution.

I now was able to get the idle down to 4,000 RPM, but on my next attempt to reduce the idle pitch, the cable came out from the carburetor end of the adjustment housing! (I exceeded the maximum adjustment of the Throttle Cable).

Since this effort, I have not been able to get the bike to run at all! ( have adjusted the carburetor end as well as the Throttle side of the cable for adjustments, as well as the Idle Screw located at the bottom of the Carburetor.

Is there some adjustment that I may be missing here? Your own personal experience on this topic is most welcomed!

I believe I am aiming for an idle of 1,100 RPM. Please correct me if I am wrong.

I have no manuals for the bike, with the exception of a grainy service manual (.pdf), but I believe I got this value from the internet. Not too sure of its source.

Any feedback will be highly appreciated, as I would love to get this bike turned over and back on the highways! It deserves some respect. It has been very neglected.

Would it be more intelligent to put it in the truck and bring it to the local Kawasaki dealership (2.5 hours away!)?

 

Welcome to KF

Since you have removed the carb rack numerous times, how did the boots look? Any cracks or loose clamps? You also need to check the carb synch after you know that the float heights are correct and the carbs are sealed correctly.

 

Thanks for your input!

Well, I only removed the rack twice. First to remove the unit for cleaning, the second for the first throttle adjustment. Following adjustments were accomplished by removing the throttle handle and the cable there from, then twisting the cable to loosen the thread count, until I got to 4k, where the next adjustment, the cable popped out (max adjustment to the downside).

I do not know what the specs are for the carburetor float height in mm is, so I left them alone.

The boots (fore & aft) are in general good condition, with the only exception being to cylinder #2 for (to the engine), where it seems it was slightly pinched from the previous attempt (previous owner?) to work the carburetor.

On the same cylinder, #2 the clamp also had a minor crimp (from being opened too much maybe?), I worked the kink out as best as I could. It appears visually to be well sealed. The rubber is no longer buckled or pinched.

Also, when it was running, it was a beautiful purr (or VA-ROOM). Not choppy, intermittent, or sputtering as far as the sound of the engine. It was just set way too high (6,500-4,000 RPM). I let it run for time periods from 15-30 seconds, as it was not red-lining.

I placed a small Gerry Can of gas (which I normally use for my lawn mower) in the tank. It should not have gone through the majority of it, since I only had it running 4 or 5 times. (Just thought I'd throw that one out as well). The fuel I did drain from the tank & carbs was a putrid pukey green, with the shellac smell!

 

I am trying to find a KZ750 manual. My KZ1000 manual says Float height of 18.6mm (the carbs upside down of course removed from the bike). You can also use the tube height check with the rack still on the bike. A 6mm tube placed on the bowl drain valve, looped up to the mating surface of the bowl/carb. The standard is 3mm +/- 1mm below the mating surface.

 

Welcome to the forums! Drag is a great resource. And sometimes he actually knows what he's talking about... hehehehe

 

Just bought a 1983 KZ-750 LTD shaft drive but can't find the drain plug to change the oil. I see the plug to remove to get to the filter, is that the one to remove? Bought a Haynes manual but it is not very helpful as I have the "F" model. Also need to regrease the shaft for the drive but not sure how to do it. Any help would be appreciated. Please respond to: butchhome@ec.rr.com

 

Behind the oil filter cap is the drain plug. almost at the end of the pan.

Remove the final gear case and propeller shaft. Clean off the old grease, apply/pack the propeller shaft sliding joint with High temperature grease. 17ml

Welcome to KF and get the factory service manual when ya can. alot better info. Good luck