So apparently I had a good (working) setup with N1TC @1N , K148, lidless, full exhaust, etc.

Recently the noise has been getting to me (actually ringing my ears), so I played around with the exhaust a bit (added restriction), put lid back on (with extra drilled holes), no snorkle.

Lo and behold, the sputtering when wacking the throttle around 3.4 to 4K rpm was back, even at 1N. I then proceeded to pull all restrictions out, pulled the airbox lid off again. Went out for a ride, the sputter point was still there.

I ended up putting around the yard with the endcap off of my DG, and to my horror it spit out the fiberglass packing halfway (is there an emoticon for dumbass?).

So, frustrated as hell, and didnt feel like playing with all the fiberglass and hot muffler to put it all back together, I put the (mildly modified) pea-shooter back on.

Oddly enough, it didnt make all that much diff. on the sputtering vs the DG full.

Im getting ready to put the damn stock needle back in with a shim. I dont know what the hell is going on-- it still seems like this really all started with the slide drill. Growing really tired of this basic carb / exh/ intake stuff giving such problems....

 

Well, last time the "fix" happened when you opened up the carb to do-up 1N - afterward, even though you didn't identify a/the problem, it ran correctly..? And now, after modifying the induction and exhaust flow characteristics, it has reappeared...?

Something likes to go wrong - likely, it's inside the carb - or rubber boots on each end of the carb, or possibly completely unrelated to induction system..

Attacking this as a tuning issue - I.E. putting the stock needle back in - would likely only "fix" it as it did when you "fixed" it by re-setting to 1N..

It could be worse. Recently two members have had stuttering/stammering that was never identified or fixed. They replaced their CVK's with TM36's. One of them sent me his "problem" CVK, which I took outta the box, installed on my bike, and it ran perfectly for the several weeks it was on my bike. I sent it back without any "findings" at all.. IIRC, they never had their issue "just disappear and reappear" as yours has..

I understand the frustration and the directions it sends one off on - Better to roll up the sleeves and "dig in"..

Yeah, I know.. Sometimes I sound like a real a$$hole..

 

I have had my bike effectively die on me mid ride twice, from the needle getting stuck I think. Both times when doing a test after changing the clip position. Simply pulling the slide and re-installing fixed it until I could get home a re-clean everything. I think the slide is pretty sensitive to dirt, if you've not already tried soaking/cleaning everything it might be worth a shot.

 

Yeah, thanks for the pep talk guys. Im just frustrated. Last time I moved the clip back to 1N it worked fine, but I didnt take the carb apart-- this time I will. The fiberglass coming out of my pipe just tipped me over the edge.

 

You got to try dj132/3n lidless

 

Actually Matty, you need to try DJ140/2N lidless. I know DJ132/3N works lidless, I charted it. I also know your giving up about 2 hp over DJ140/2N lidless.