My understanding is that the valving is not too bad on the KLX for off-road, it's the springs that are undersprung for most folks. Usually you need to revalve when you re-purpose a fork, i.e., changing a fork from an MX application where high dampening is good for handing the high speed jumps and other rigors without bottoming out to off-road where you want it to be less in order to absorb logs and rocks and so forth at high speed. Change from one form of riding to the other generally requires a revalve and other setup changes for optimal performance.

I was talking to a local suspension shop here about mine and the fellow told me that on a scale of 0 to 100 of noticable improvement, springs will get you 85% and revalving and other modifications will get you the other 15%. So if you are going to do just one thing, new springs are the way to go and have the highest bang for the buck. New springs from Moto-pro were around $120 I if I recall, not including shipping.

 

Brian, Thanks for the info. I think that I will order springs first and if not satisfied look into valving.

Right now when the forks get warmed up good I start getting some oscillation. I lightened up the preload in the back due to something I read somewhere and this helped. It seems fine on the pavement but as soon as I get in the dirt the front end gets real light and will follow any ridge it hits. Not a real good feeling while going 50 down a dirt road.

 

Mikem1965,

See this thread...

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/m_116932/tm.htm

I'm very happy with my race-tech springs. No other mods done beside setting the sag/preload on the rear spring. I would go with just the springs first and see how you like it. The Race-Tech springs were $109 at the local dealer. He got then in just one day from his distributor.

They made a huge diff. in the way the bike handles. FWIW I weigh 185-190 depending on my weekend beer intake. [:-]

 

Ordered the Moto-Pro springs earlier this evening. $134 for the front and $119 for the rear plus shipping. I asked about the oil and the guy I talked to said the the stock oil was actually pretty good and not to worry about changing it for another year. He also said that the "My Bike" spring calculator was being changed because they were recommending too heavy of a spring for the back.

The only fork that I am familiar with is the one responsible for me needing to order new springs. Does anyone have any pointers, pics, or a link that shows how to do the work? Any help is appreciated.