Front springs for 07?
#2
Use more rear brake to balance out the bike during stops. Don't rely fully on the front. Don't forget to use your engine to help assist your slowing. If you use all your systems effectively you will avoid any harsh front diving, and maintain a "Balanced" bike.
#3
Most go with a higher spring rate in the front to help with braking dive and also to provide the platform for much better on and offroad performance. .44 springs from Racetech, Motopro and a few others are the most common rates used. Racetech has a spring calculator to help with the selection.
#4
In the general sense, you tend to get a decent amount of dive from just about any dirt bike...even one properly set up. You're usually dealing with anything from 10-13 inches of travel, and usually 25-30% is recommended for normal sag. The springs you use for trail or most off road are usually fairly supple to deal with the widely varying type of terrain. Really stiff springs are usually reserved for very aggressive motocross for hard landings from huge gaps and tabletops. So, you're going to have a fair amount of dive when you really get on the brakes, and in some cases there is no time or ability to prepare for it...blasting around a corner and getting surprised by a big v-ditch for example. You're right about technique helping you avoid disaster, however, and it probably helps the most by trying to concentrate the braking while the bike is in a straight line. I think your description of using the engine braking and not always solely relying on the front brake is very beneficial, but aggressive riding is almost always going to involve aggressive braking which will still end up with some very noticeable dive even when everything on the bike is ideal.
#5
Not trying to be argumentative 6th, but that's just wrong info there as it applies to the KLX...especially the '06/'07. The OEM fork springs are like .36 or .38 rated springs. They're suitable for a death camp survivor...or someone in the 140-160 pound range at best. Most owners go to .44's or thereabouts. Just about anyone from 160 pounds up doesn't just get dive from the front end, they usually get a clanking bottomout during anything approaching hard riding with OEM springs.
In the general sense, you tend to get a decent amount of dive from just about any dirt bike...even one properly set up. You're usually dealing with anything from 10-13 inches of travel, and usually 25-30% is recommended for normal sag. The springs you use for trail or most off road are usually fairly supple to deal with the widely varying type of terrain. Really stiff springs are usually reserved for very aggressive motocross for hard landings from huge gaps and tabletops. So, you're going to have a fair amount of dive when you really get on the brakes, and in some cases there is no time or ability to prepare for it...blasting around a corner and getting surprised by a big v-ditch for example. You're right about technique helping you avoid disaster, however, and it probably helps the most by trying to concentrate the braking while the bike is in a straight line. I think your description of using the engine braking and not always solely relying on the front brake is very beneficial, but aggressive riding is almost always going to involve aggressive braking which will still end up with some very noticeable dive even when everything on the bike is ideal.
In the general sense, you tend to get a decent amount of dive from just about any dirt bike...even one properly set up. You're usually dealing with anything from 10-13 inches of travel, and usually 25-30% is recommended for normal sag. The springs you use for trail or most off road are usually fairly supple to deal with the widely varying type of terrain. Really stiff springs are usually reserved for very aggressive motocross for hard landings from huge gaps and tabletops. So, you're going to have a fair amount of dive when you really get on the brakes, and in some cases there is no time or ability to prepare for it...blasting around a corner and getting surprised by a big v-ditch for example. You're right about technique helping you avoid disaster, however, and it probably helps the most by trying to concentrate the braking while the bike is in a straight line. I think your description of using the engine braking and not always solely relying on the front brake is very beneficial, but aggressive riding is almost always going to involve aggressive braking which will still end up with some very noticeable dive even when everything on the bike is ideal.
Well you did provide alot of great information. We both are making assumptions as to where he rides mainly as he didn't post his prefered riding conditions.
I'm riding what I believe to be the stock springs, I'm 170lbs and as you've seen from my video's they hold up fairly well on single track trails with massive water erosion. I think most riders compensate for their lack of ability with mechanical solutions to often.
When I hear a rider complaining about front end dive, the first thing that comes to mind is, a: They are to scared of locking the rear, so they never use it, and b: They don't use proper braking techniques. I completely support boosting up the springs if you require it based on body size,ect. However my suggestion was a way to avoid the dive without relying solely on mechanical solutions to compensate for poor riding.
And what type of aggressive riding we talking about? Street, track, trails? If I smash the front on a trail I fully expect my tire to give way and I'll eat dirt. I use engine + rear to keep the bike balanced and the front stable. On the street I still use my engine + rear brake well using the front to keep the bike leveled and controlled.
I can do a little video showing how I can avoid front dive with a 70-90% stop if you want. Anyways, we swayed off topic. Hopefully he can find the right springs an such for his style and preferred riding conditions.
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