I'm using the DJ128.

Again: kdx220 snorkel, stock exhaust, stock cam timing.

 

Matt88-8, as you know, with the lid and KDX snorkel, you are "off book" with intended use of the 2206 kit. Basically, you've slowed the slide reactions, especially during the last half of its' travel, with the lid and KDX snorkel, and you've decreased the top end fueling needs with the stock exhaust.

At any rate - your easy tuning options are to change the clip position and test. You'll need a repeatable test circuit that blatantly shows the problem area you are now having. Make a relatively large change (2 notches up) to 2N, and retest thoroughly. If problem is same but worse, test bottom notch (5N) next. Report findings..

 

Thanks. I will try 2N on the clip. See where that gets me

 

After rereading your description of your current issue, you may not be able to duplicate it in winter time.. If not, then you may be unable to correctly gauge effects on this issue and will have to resort to "overall feel" .. In general, you want the highest clip setting that provides powerful acceleration - in 3rd or 4th gear - from a "snap and hold" WOT from 4K rpm with a rev-up to 9.5k rpm.. If you get powerful acceleration that includes a "extra kick" at a certain RPM, your very close or at optimum clip position. In this case, try one more notch up, retest, and make your choice.



It's probably best that I don't write a "novel" about the details concerning performance tuning with the 2206 kit - suffice to say the needle goes rich very fast toward the end of the slide travel @ WOT. The clip positions slightly change the RPM that this happens at..


FYI:

If you have a KLX300R and a 2206 kit, you can follow the instructions.. If you have a KLX250 and a 2206 kit, best follow our instructions.

 

Well I finally spent some time with the bike re jetted to the 120 main anticipating the FMF slip on,DJ needle, clip on third slot both washers on top ,Washers keep falling out trying to install, A tiny bit of rubber cement just to keep them in place, New spring installed, thumb screw 2 1/2 turns out ,new uni filter oiled remove snorkel everything looked good except the spring on the new thumb screw it was too big put the old one on and used the old rubber washer since it was stuck up in there looked with a flash light , I think this is part of my problem bike starts , take the choke off and it dies , Hard restart let it warm up longer the minute I give it throttle it dies , I'm going to back in and check everything out I'm going to remove the new thumb screw and go back to stock, loose the spring that came with the kit ,since I reread the thread again and somewhere I read I shouldn't use the new one .The slide was working properly The diaphragm looked good and appeared to be seated properly ..I screwed up somewhere .. Well removal should go a lot smoother this time...

 

You can use the DJ spring with your current configuration if you want to (stock exhaust, lid w/o snorkel)... It's not that "big-a-deal" with your bikes' current config.. So no worries if you've already installed the "stocker"...

If/when you decide to run a lidless airbox and re-do the carb for lidless power, you must run the stock slide spring..

Failed carb "sessions" are a pain, but a great learning tool. Kinda a situation where you do it carefully, correctly, or you don't get to ride..

 

Another question , Per the instructions, Stage one with aftermarket exhaust DJ 120 main jet. Stage Two instructions with slip on DJ 128 main jet everything else the same, Would you mind clairfiying the difference for me I mean should I go stage two and lidless..J slightly confused here

 

Ok.. Lidless running/performance is not an option for you yet. Once you get the slipon and acquire the correct main jet, you can re-do the carb setup for lidless running/performance. The correct jet is a DJ140 or K152 if you are at or near sea level - other altitudes require a calculation for correct jet size.. This calc information is on both my FMF and DGR dyno threads below on my Sig line..

At this moment, you have stock exhaust, so you must follow the instructions - Stage 1 for stock airbox, Stage 2 for lid sans snorkel.

 

Well I went back in today Seems my problem was operator error, The install of the needle .Straightened it out Got it fired up I have good throttle response now, Took it out for a short spin it was raining real hard Only made it about 500 yards went back ,My PC 4 should be here Thursday .I'll install it then and take it out for a good spin the rain should stop by then..I'm this close to ordering the power bomb ,Do you feel the Mega bomb is worth the extra money ?

 

Powerbomb vs Megabomb: Unfortunately I/we have no data to offer. I do own both systems but the powerbomb system is currently on my KLX300R. Obviously I am in a position to be able to directly compare both with back-to-back Dyno runs with only the header as a difference.. Perhaps when I am able to begin Dyno testing again, I will..

There is information that the Powerbomb enhances mid/upper RPM with a loss below and the Megabomb enhances everywhere. I would tend to agree with that assessment..
Think of it this way, If you get the Pbomb, you'll never know how much "mopowah" you coulda had.. If you get the Mbomb, you certainly can rest assured you have all the "mopowah" money can buy - so no worries, no regrets, and you are done buying exhaust components forever..

Either way, you will be committing to running lidless with my lidless CVK carb setup recipe if you intend to enjoy every bit of the power the FMF system can make (and that you've paid for..)...

You'll also need to be running lidless with my other lidless CVK setup (for stock header + slipon) if you want all the power offered by that PC4..

Remember, right now, you do not have the proper main jets for lidless running and setup, so just redo the carb with standard stage 2 when you put on the PC4..