Awesome, Thanks Can't wait ,Once again I really appreciate it ! So no washers on top?

 

Both DJ washers must always be used, regardless of the clip position. In your case, they should be super glued to the top of the clip. BTW, that area does not see fuel, only filtered air.

I have reassembled 1N+washers without gluing.. Gluing is best... I edited post #210 - this info added.. Sorry I left it out

 

Klxster is the 2152 kit spring is shorter than the stock spring?

 

IIRC, it's lighter - not shorter.. It's ashamed that we only need the DJ needle, its' clip, and washers, to do-up lidless carb setups as DJ won't sell just a needle. You have to buy a whole kit to get the needle. Of course, those that want to run a lid or a snorkel will make use of the whole kit..

 

So I will have to order the other jet kit to get the needle and main jet I need .The needle in the 2152 kit won't cut it ? I could just order a larger main...

 

Wow DonA, you seem lost in the woods.. Let me try to make this unequivocal.

Take the needle from your DJ2152 kit. Put the clip on the top notch. The top notch of the needle is the one farthest away from the pointy end. Super Glue both DJ washers on top of the clip.

Acquire a DJ140 main jet or a Keihin 152 main jet.

Reassemble the carb with the new main jet, the needle, the stock slide spring (Not the DJ spring from the kit.)... Turn the fuel screw in until it is lightly seated then back it out 3 full revolutions.

Put it all back on the bike, as well as the FMF Megabomb and PC4. Be sure to remove the airbox lid and snorkel - put em in the attic.. If you've done the work correctly, it will now start and run perfectly with a tremendous power increase 6k - 10.5k.

If you didn't do it correctly or mishandled the carb, you nightmare begins.. You'll be redoing it until it's right - See my "CVk list...." thread below for insight on what all you can screw up..lol

 

One other observation DonA. After re-reading your posts in here. It seems you may have had a malfunctioning carb before you began the rejetting sessions. If you feel this was likely, you certainly should dismantle the carb completely and check for clogged circuits and components. Rejetting is tuning an otherwise perfectly functioning carb. Troubleshooting is fixing a problem. Mixing the two is always disastrous unless you fix the problem(s) at the same time you rejet.. For instance: A leaking diaphragm(mis-seated or pinholed) will never be "fixed" with a new needle and main jet.. A clogged pilot jet or emulsion tube cannot be fixed with a DJ kit..

 

Hey Klxter, I was temp confused about the needle rereading some older threads on thickness, Anyway you laid it out there clear and concise, The bike is running good I found out why it would hardly rev over 8.5k, The throttle cable pulley was installed slightly asque preventing it from reaching WOT, Straightened it out took it for a spin .Rev's fine now Still struggling to it past 65 not enough road . I went looking for jets today Couldn't come up with a 152 I found a Keihin 150 and a 155 brought them both home .I know it's not ideal but which one would you recommend ?I'm hoping the header will arrive later tonight or in the morning for install per your instructions if it has to be a 152 I'll order one , Thanks

 

Damn, figuring out the 150/155 issue was a real statistical analysis nightmare session with the correction table.. End result is that it is a toss-up.. Looking at 2500-5000 ft ASL, the 155 does better at the lower alts, 150 is better at the higher alts.. Neither one will provide anywhere near the "best fit overall" fueling offered by the K152.

The other consideration is that non-MCM bikes with the full FMF system will make more power (require more fueling) up top than my dyno charts show.

Adding this all up: Run the 155 now. Run it at all your alts. If you like the 155, there is no reason to go back into the carb until you have a K152/DJ140 to put in it. If it runs poorly at higher alts - alts that you like to spend time at - put in the 150 until you get the DJ140/K152..

Normally, peeps have a smaller ASL "envelope" to operate within, and one jet size larger or smaller (than recommended) would not be that big of a deal. Your situation, however, requires a "best fit overall" fueling curve that make a +/- one jet size a problem. My recipes are "leanest best power" fueling curves. This, along with the likelihood that your bike needs more top end fueling than my dyno charted fueling curve for the full FMF system means the 155 should be tried first.

Remember, the CVK has "built in" altitude compensation - The slide spring has a "set" resistance curve to slide lifting/reactions. Higher alts (lower air pressures) lift/react the slide slower because the engine vacuum in the thinner air exerts a weaker force. Adding to this: As alts increase, the engine output decreases, further lessening the vacuum exerted on the slide spring to lift/react the slide. Thus, leaner fueling curves as alts increase.

 

Hey Bud ,Didn't mean to give you a headache! I'm torn maybe I'll just order the 152 . ,I think I'll just take your advice and install the 155 and see how it works THanks for all your help