Neither of them appear to be beveled. I agree AHL goes up.

Does your kit have a solid silver ring? There is one shown on the Amazon advertisement but that's not what I got.

 

Ok, I exchanged a couple emails with tong tong last night and got the rings sorted. The black with sliver edge was the top ring and the ahl goes up. They were very helpful, I sent them the photo of the two rings and they sent it back labelled.

I got everything put together today and just fired it up. It didn't blow up so I guess I did everything right. I didn't run it long as I need some warmer weather to go out and ride it and break it in.

 

Yes!! Congrats on a successful build. Keep us informed about your assessment of the kit. I am finishing 2 ebikes I am building and then the klx hop up is next. Weather here is not great either.
If you use a loupe there appears to be a slight bevel on the silver ring . Colorvis for id

 

Well, another kit installed and ready for the road! Checked the ring gaps before installing and all were in spec. Used a 3/4 inch slice of 3 inch abs drain pipe, cut a slit in one side, and perfect ring compressor for the 300 cc piston! The head gasket provided is not a perfect fit around 2 coolant passages, but neither was the factory one. I used Permatex copper spray on the base, head and exhaust header gaskets.
So a list of the other mods I did while at it
DJ 2182 kit, 132 main, needle and spring supplied with kit, needle clip 3 notches from top, swapped out pilot for #40 and set pilot screw at 2 1/2 turns out.
Drilled starting jet .018 inch
Uni air filter, snorkel removed
Pulled smog, but left lower crank to air box hose on and connected, with long hose from smog valve directly from front of head back to top air box fitting, rather than capping these off, fit great over the head and frame. This should give enough venting, no?
Powercore 4 slip on, fabricated my own stainless 1 1/8 quiet tip and welded it around the supplied spark arrestor, stock header, but will later get the power bomb.
Had to reinstall Auto cam chain tensioner as an ebay one I bought doesn't fit, so beware. Not too worried as mine is working perfectly. Kreiger if needed
Turned on the petcock, pulled the choke, and 4 cranks it started and ran beautiful, settling into a smooth idle, something this thing never did cold with stock carb!
Pulled the revs up to get oil and coolant circulating and everything sounds great.
6 deg Celsius and pissing rain grrrrr.
Can't wait to check this out.
One thing I was considering was using the stock, stiffer carb spring and may have to install if it runs too lean, have to ride and find out

 

Oooops, just realized I should have blocked off air at front of head, DOH! I will do what others have done and run a 5/8 ID hose front crankcase fitting to a filter above airbox.

 

Ahh. a stiffer slide spring will cause a leaner response curve to a throttle input.

 

You are right, thanks for that but may not need any changes. Once I blocked off the fitting on front of head, I took it out for a short ride and fueling feels really good, no surging, missing or decel popping. Certainly more power . No WOT till it breaks in a bit and I change the oil, but I'm really pleased I got it this close first go around, thanks in part to the good info I gleaned from this forum. For me, the biggest pita for this job was getting the carb back in. The air cleaner boot is about 3/8 inch short of perfect fit, so wanted to keep sliding off. I also realized i can reach in with a short driver bit and adjust the mixture screw under the carb. I'm going to weld a finish nail across the end of the bit for a portable Kouba type tool. I'm at 3 turns out right now. I'm going to leave it for a week and am betting it will fire right up without swearing, shaking the bars, leaning it over, draining the carb, running it out of gas, or connecting my shop vac! Thats my fantasy anyway

 

Removing and refitting the carb is the hardest part of jetting. It was tough to try to make sure the air boot between the carb and air box was fully on the bell mouth.

 

Last time I changed jets I found it is much easier to remove fuel tank and to turn the carb to the left rather than remove it. Then you can access and remove carbs' float bowl from the right side of a bike.
Changed #38 pilot to #40 and main jet from #128 to #140 (kawasaki jets), decel popping on my BB351 almost disappeared.

 

I just re-jetted my bike as well though I was able to turn the carb without removing the fuel tank. It was tight but doable.