Intake noise is significant with the lid removed. Having a really loud pipe masks it a bit. Since we are running the Q4 with quiet tip, we are hearing more of that intake noise with the lid off. There isn't much difference in sound between KDX snorkel and lid on with snorkel out completely. I keep the KDX snorkel in place for the additional protection it affords when crossing water.

 

quick thread-jack: i have a Q4 and like the sound but its too loud. can the quiet insert be bought separately? and do you find it worthwhile?

 

Here's another pretty good thread on the FMF system for your question. I'll answer over there

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...-44914/page16/

 

Klxster, thanks for the input. Pre AHL300 my bike ran good but I would'nt say that it ran perfect. Say I was on a moderate grade at 5000 rpm in 4th, if I rolled on 1/2 to 3/4 it would pull strongly. As I go wot the intake sound would go from a growl to something more hollow sounding. At full throttle the torque stayed the same or slightly fell off compared to 1/2 to 3/4. It never popped or back fired on decel. It never balked ,stumble or bogged.
Yesterday I got the fuel thumb screw in the mail. I installed it and the DJ138, needle 1st notch, ended up at about 2.5 turns on the #38. Test ride showed similar symptoms. Decel popping , backfire between some shifts. Rapid wot and bike stumbles ,especially 4-6000 when it would die until I backed off. Sometime it would die,stutter, die, stumble and then start to run better as revs neared 7000. So it seems to the higher the vacuum the worse the problem. The carb is well positioned and clamped. Can the carb holder leak? Can I eliminate the exhaust side?
The diaphragm is in good condition and positioned correctly. The slide operates smoothly.
The symptoms are slightly improved with the return of the 138. During the first 200 miles I never went wot so this problem never showed its self.
Today I will check the carb holder bolts and vacuum hoses.

 

Yep, you have a malfunction. Hopefully you'll find a big air leak somewhere. Be sure to also check the seal under the throttle return spring on the butterfly valve shaft. Once all air leaks are taken care of,check the float setting in the bowl to make sure it is in spec. Check all passageways and be sure the emulsion tube is perfectly clean with all its' "holes" clear of obstructions.

Once everything is checked and cleaned, about the only item left is a malfunctioning slide/diaphragm.

Check my link below for CVK troubleshooting..

 

Well, I read Klxter's CVK34 thread and two items caught my attention. The butterfly shaft seal symptoms sounded plausible, the bike has less than 3000 miles on it but it is a 2006 so it may have deteriorated over time. Gave it the spray test and all was tight. The next item that struck a chord was indexing the carb. When I got the bike the carb was rotated about 10 degrees towards the throttle side and the throttle cables were routed out the side of the valve cover. When I reinstalled the carb after the 300 cylinder I rotated the carb another few degree to improve a binding cable situation. I assumed the carb was in its correct position. If I would have thought it through I could have surmised that the float level would be compromised.
The backfiring on decel and shifting has morphed into a burble with an occasional pop. The big hole when whacking the throttle wide open has gone away. Only once in the ride ,for a spit second it skipped a couple of beats. That came during wot though the gears going up a hill. Tommorrow I will check that the float level is correct.
Still feels a little flat wot, so I will try larger main jets ,especially with the cooler weather.
I would like to thank Klxter for pointing me in the right direction. Your list of carb issues is a valuable resource and this forum is fortunate to have your input.

 

Your very welcome - glad your bike is doing better..

I can help with the jetting if I know your bikes' details - exhaust, lidless airbox or not, etc etc..
My KLX300R is running lidless with a DJ146 main, DNO352 needle on top notch, #40 pilot jet, full FMF exhaust sytem..

 

Lots of you have now purchased one of these. Anyone else installed it? I am on the fence and thinking of trying this. One poster said the lower tensioner bolt needed shaved down 3mm, is this true? I had mine out yesterday and couldn't see why it would need trimmed. It just holds a spring against the guide and I wouldn't think 3mm would not make much difference in this situation.

 

Depends on how the hole is tapped. I would venture to guess (haven't opened the box on mine yet) that the AHL threads are not cut thru, the bolt bottoms on the thread before being fully seated at the flange against the cylinder. Either way I figure it isn't a big deal to shorten it.

 

That makes since if that's the case. Could the hole also be tapped the rest of the way?