Aussie 2010 KLX250S jetting and slip on pipe

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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 08:19 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Arctra
...... Clearly it is not sealing properly Does anyone know if this is going to be a problem? Is it OK to leave it like that, or do I need to get some sort of seal sorted out to prevent any pipe damage?
You can get some sealant so apply to the joint. Looks like the leak is minor, but it will increase the noise from the pipe as it draws air into the system. Permatex RTV high temp silicone or Permatex exhaust sealer are the go. Supercheap Auto has them both as does Repco.




Nice ride report BTW.
 

Last edited by WestOzKLX; Jun 7, 2010 at 08:31 AM.
Old Jun 7, 2010 | 08:24 AM
  #32  
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A better clamp than the "bendy " OE Kawa' item will give a more secure connection to the pipe too. Any auto store should keep em. I have one like this.

 
Old Jun 7, 2010 | 10:06 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by WestOzKLX
You can get some sealant so apply to the joint. Looks like the leak is minor, but it will increase the noise from the pipe as it draws air into the system. Permatex RTV high temp silicone or Permatex exhaust sealer are the go. Supercheap Auto has them both as does Repco.
...
Nice ride report BTW.
Thanks for that. Now please excuse my ignorance, but will I have to unclamp the joint and insert the sealant in the joint, or can just apply it to the outside? I'm guessing it's the former, but hoping it's the latter

I guess if I am to replace that clamp I will need to open the joint anyway. I am reluctant to though as the guy who did it said it was a bugger to do and needed 2 people
 
Old Jun 7, 2010 | 10:23 AM
  #34  
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Yes. You should really remove the slip on to fit the sealant to a nice clean joint. It looks as if the pipe has slipped a bit and that has caused your leak. The best way to fit the pipe is a "dry" (no sealant) fit first with all bolts LOOSELY fitted (this includes the header,) and once it all fits up well, tighten the header in place, tighten the tailcan to the mid pipe and then remove the slip on complete. This is when you can add the sealant to the header/slipon joint (add the clamp to the header at this point.). Tighten it all up with the new clamp and away you go.

Too many people don't loosen the header to fit a slip on and force the pipe into a joint with a lot of tension in it. This always results in a leak. The pipes when dry fitted should all line up with minimum tension on any joints. You shouldn't have to force it. The other downside of an exhaust fitted with to much tension is the inevitable break in the pipe work at the area with the most stress.


It's good to do the work yourself. You'll get to know your way around your bike and that experience is always valuable if you need to apply a repair in the bush.
 

Last edited by WestOzKLX; Jun 7, 2010 at 10:35 AM.
Old Jun 7, 2010 | 11:26 AM
  #35  
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Arctra,

Your riding hard at Belanglo did this! The problem is that the original exhaust set up is too rigid. Ride hard on the dirt and the bike flexes a bit between cylinder head and tail pipe. If you checked out my Staintune you would see no clamp between header pipe and exhaust can. It is made as a tight sleeve fit and allows for the flex.

I would not be too worried about it - certainly do not try to tighten it too much.
 
Old Jun 7, 2010 | 12:00 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by The Mekon
Arctra,

Your riding hard at Belanglo did this! The problem is that the original exhaust set up is too rigid. Ride hard on the dirt and the bike flexes a bit between cylinder head and tail pipe. If you checked out my Staintune you would see no clamp between header pipe and exhaust can. It is made as a tight sleeve fit and allows for the flex.

I would not be too worried about it - certainly do not try to tighten it too much.
Hey hey, John! I wondered if you were a member here too

Funnily enough, I did check out your staintune, but not the join. Doh!

I'll take your advice and not do anything to the pipe then.

Thanks a million.
 
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