Rode the ST 1300 to the store and it was 36 out...brrr I had to turn on the heated grips. lol

 

Well, after a quick google image search on ST130, it seems you took out your ST130 electric guitar and rode it like a hobby horse, to the store, in really cold weather.. Also, I guess, you've installed some kind of heating element on its' neck..?

When I grow up, I wanna be just like you..

 

Fixed....LOL

 

Oh, ok.. Yes, that makes a much better image of your ride to the store..


Electric windshield, 7.7 gal capacity, heated grips, sport bike like handling, 125 hp/85 lb ft @ crank, shaft drive... Comfortable tourer + canyon carver.. Very nice "one bike" solution. Guess that's why they were made 10 yrs +...

 

just installed a GPR GPE titanium (forgot to install KAT)

runs great very few pops on decel, planing possible powercommander this spring.

 

Rimlocks and spoke weights front and rear. Iridium spark plug. Bumped the needle from 3N up to 2N to see if that will get rid of a stutter I have between 7k - 8k since moving from DJ120 to DJ128 main and losing the snorkel.

UPDATE: Bike didn't like my change (2N on the needle), most likely a reassembly error as I got the dreaded death after WOT, nursed it home on full choke. I pulled the top off the carb and decided to go the other way.. 4N, and was very careful getting the spring seated correctly on the lid prongs. Runs like a champ. Too cold to give it a proper test, but a few WOT runs and it seemed to pull nice and clean to 9.5k. Next weekend we are supposed to be back to 65 degrees or so (from 25 degrees this weekend) so I'll give it a thorough run.

UPDATE 2: Rimlocks.... I just put on a Trackmaster II rear and a Pirelli Scorpion XCMS front tire. Compared to the K270's that were on it, the new tires felt like riding on marbles at 15psi on compacted sand. With the rimlocks, I dropped them down to 10psi and they feel much better. They are awesome out in the pasture and the muddier trails. I had to pick up a low pressure gauge to find 10psi accurately. I may end up looking for a different front tire, but will give the XCMS a little more seat time before I switch.

 

I am surprised klxster has not chimed in on this. I followed his advice and am happy as hell with my fueling. 70 miles per gallon. Better power at all rpm. MCM helps. No lid. At sea level with a DJ140 main jet, needle on 2N. "Honestly officer, that 2 foot high wheelie was an accident." A DJ128 is fairly lean, that is what I had previously, when I first bought the bike. I ordered 3 main jets from DJ and stopped at 140. I have a 144 but did not try it and probably will not unless the BB351 needs it, when I get around to doing that .

In my world I was nearly stranded coming home from work. Turns out that my fuel tank vent hoses were holding my choke **** out which caused erratic idle speed and engine stalling. The hoses were slightly displaced due to my new mosfet r/r being slightly larger than the stocker.

 

Snappster, Abrams is running the airbox lid. So that is strictly DJ stage 1 or stage 2 setups. No one that runs the lid and/or snorkels needs my input, DJ has them covered with the instruction sheet in the kits..

Members, like you, that want to experience the "next level" power offered by running the airbox lidless would need to run your setup (DJ140/2N or 1N w/o MCM) or the full exhaust system setup (DJ144/1N) near sea level..

BTW, Snappster, in case I haven't already talked to you about "latest findings", next time you have the fuel tank off, you should put the stock slide spring back in and run/test that setup change for a good long time.. Expected results are increased throttle response, more powerful TRQ curve from off idle to 7K, and same-as-before power levels above 7K.. Fuel mileage (when not terrorizing the public) should increase as well. If you have a "power hit" right now, during WOT acceleration, at 5k-6k, it should even that out by increasing the power levels below this "hit".. These are your "theoretical results" based on similar results with bikes setup like yours BUT w/o MCM - they have to run stock spring AND DJ140/1N.. If you do see the expected results, it will prove that 2N with DJ spring + lidless (your current setup) is "too quick" of a fueling curve even with the MCM.

 

Just dropped in a new Yuasa battery after nearly getting stranded again last week. The new mosfet R/R is still giving 14.25 VDC at 1500rpm. Maybe the old one let the battery run too low too long.The old battery says Kawasaki on one side so maybe it was the original. 8 years is not too shabby. Now it might start pulling model rocket igniter duty. Hope the new one lasts as long. It did start the bike with much more authority and idled better than expected. Warmed up a little and pulled a few wheelies in front of the house. It was a good day.

 

cleaned my forks and gave it some sticky oil to pretect it from the salt.

replaced front brake line with galfer stainless line (damn brake oil gets dirty fast )

lubed my chain

installed a power commander with a map (temp map)

put air box lidt i a bag to get modded with bigger hole

went for a test ride and almost did my first weelie (not intentional) and with power alone to boot.