Upgrade To HID Lighting Using *Stock Headlight* - Part 4 ... The End Has Come!
Part 1 ... https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=31030
Part 2 ... https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=31031
Part 3 ... https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=31044
85% of the work is over. Yeah!
At this point one challenge remained - where to mount that control box?

Before continuing it seemed a good idea to determine the extent (or lack) of waterproofing of that control box & connector. It was designed to be installed in an engine compartment of a car = NOT likely designed to be submerged underwater?
Depending on where it ended up on my KLX and type of riding conditions encountered, it could end up underwater (deep water crossing
) or at the very least exposed to splashing water.
Great News ... Unscrewed end cover with the metal tab/mounting hole. Inside I could tell there lurked a fully epoxy potted circuit board. No concerns about water on this end.
Just OK News ... the other end with the large connector and 5 leads coming from it:

So needed to find somewhere AT or ABOVE level of air box intake to mount the control box
.
If your engine just sucked in water and died - seized - cracked piston - bent rod etc. does a functional headlight at that moment really matter?
Under seat? Nope, just couldn't find a spot.
Behind a tank/side panel? There's room BUT, if they get torn off so does the HID stuff. Not optimal.
Solution!
Hmm ... glanced at bike and noticed that "metal hook thingy" welded to the frame in front of where the fuel tank sits? Hanging it there put that connector at same level as air intake.
Would fuel tank fit back on? Yes! Dropped right in. Tank pushed control box forward a tiny bit, nothing to concern me, perfectly happy to mount it right there.
NOTE: I have CARB plumbing/valve crap removed and that could/would make all the difference in the world. With CARB stuff in place it probably would have been a no-go location.
Onward ... Securely zip-tie box in place

For most folks all that's left would be to run leads to front/rear of bike, hook up various connectors, replace headlight/housing, etc. and ride off into the night.
However, I wanted to do 2 more things. * Bonus Farkles @ No Additional Cost To You The Reader *
1. Run some individually fused lines to handlebar area.


A 4 circuit fuse box happened to fit perfectly here.



Done. finis. geëindigda. τελειωμένος. fertig. rifinito. 終了する. terminado. закончено.
All that's left is put the seat on and go riding! 

**** FINAL VERDICT ****
Overall I give this mod an "A".
Less than $100, a couple evenings in the garage, fabricated parts very simple, able to revert back to halogen bulb quite easily, enormously improved light output, no irreversible changes to bike required.
"A+"
"A"
"A-"
"B-"
What I Plan To Go Back And Do
Try to waterproof control box connector & cover plate best I can.
Or, just gob a bunch of Bel-Ray waterproof grease into above mentioned areas. Probably work just as well, not nearly as sano-looking. When it comes to a connector hidden under the tank of dirt bike, looks are everything ya' know!
Happy Modding! Give it a try, what the worst that could happen? Fry your bike's electrical system, zap yourself unconscious, damage your corneas ... don't be a wuss.
Part 2 ... https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=31031
Part 3 ... https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=31044
85% of the work is over. Yeah!
At this point one challenge remained - where to mount that control box?
Before continuing it seemed a good idea to determine the extent (or lack) of waterproofing of that control box & connector. It was designed to be installed in an engine compartment of a car = NOT likely designed to be submerged underwater?
Depending on where it ended up on my KLX and type of riding conditions encountered, it could end up underwater (deep water crossing
) or at the very least exposed to splashing water.Great News ... Unscrewed end cover with the metal tab/mounting hole. Inside I could tell there lurked a fully epoxy potted circuit board. No concerns about water on this end.
Just OK News ... the other end with the large connector and 5 leads coming from it:
- ballast/ignitor, long lead (not used, trimmed to 6" and sealed end)
- ballast/igintor, short lead (used this one, perfect length to headlight area)
- HID bulb solenoid control
- Interface to stock headlight connector
- Fused lead to battery
- at best blow HID system fuse
- at worst blow control box innards

So needed to find somewhere AT or ABOVE level of air box intake to mount the control box
. If your engine just sucked in water and died - seized - cracked piston - bent rod etc. does a functional headlight at that moment really matter?
Under seat? Nope, just couldn't find a spot.
Behind a tank/side panel? There's room BUT, if they get torn off so does the HID stuff. Not optimal.
Solution!
Hmm ... glanced at bike and noticed that "metal hook thingy" welded to the frame in front of where the fuel tank sits? Hanging it there put that connector at same level as air intake.

Would fuel tank fit back on? Yes! Dropped right in. Tank pushed control box forward a tiny bit, nothing to concern me, perfectly happy to mount it right there.
NOTE: I have CARB plumbing/valve crap removed and that could/would make all the difference in the world. With CARB stuff in place it probably would have been a no-go location.
Onward ... Securely zip-tie box in place
For most folks all that's left would be to run leads to front/rear of bike, hook up various connectors, replace headlight/housing, etc. and ride off into the night.
However, I wanted to do 2 more things. * Bonus Farkles @ No Additional Cost To You The Reader *
1. Run some individually fused lines to handlebar area.
- [*]
- [*]
- [*]
- "Stealth Mode" ... amuse myself by sneaking behind riding buddies at night with light off, switching on 4500 Lumens of blinding white light just as they enter gnarly death-defying section of trail.
- "Nature Mode" ... ride at night with no headlight, by the light of moon and stars, like real men do.
- "Battery Almost Dead, Don't Want To/Can't Bump Start Bike Mode" ... hopefully a rare case but the real reason.

A 4 circuit fuse box happened to fit perfectly here.
Done. finis. geëindigda. τελειωμένος. fertig. rifinito. 終了する. terminado. закончено.
All that's left is put the seat on and go riding! 
**** FINAL VERDICT ****
Overall I give this mod an "A".
Less than $100, a couple evenings in the garage, fabricated parts very simple, able to revert back to halogen bulb quite easily, enormously improved light output, no irreversible changes to bike required.
"A+"
- Light Output
- Affordability
- Current draw same as stock light
- Utilize stock headlight reflector/housing
"A"
- Ease Of Fabricating Required Piece Parts
- Beam Pattern Real-world Useability
"A-"
- Quality Of Components (control box connector not waterproof automotive type like other connectors, A+ otherwise)
- Overall Suitability For 2009 KLX Mounting
"B-"
- Beam Pattern vs PIAA/Hella/Trailtech HID's
- Only one "safe" place to mount control box, must remove CARB system.
What I Plan To Go Back And Do
Try to waterproof control box connector & cover plate best I can.
- Light coating of di-electric grease on connector pins (box side) and into pin receptacles (connector side) - NOT back of connector where wires go in!
- Hook back up, then a couple coats of "liquid vinyl tape" around edges of connector, where wires go into BACK of connector, where end plate mates with box housing.
Or, just gob a bunch of Bel-Ray waterproof grease into above mentioned areas. Probably work just as well, not nearly as sano-looking. When it comes to a connector hidden under the tank of dirt bike, looks are everything ya' know!

Happy Modding! Give it a try, what the worst that could happen? Fry your bike's electrical system, zap yourself unconscious, damage your corneas ... don't be a wuss.
whats the story on the Legality of HID lighting for street. They arent allowed are they? I looked into upgrading my car in the past to find out they appear to be pretty serious about not installing them on anything used on the street. Any thoughts?
Yep, absolutely totally illegal in every state in the USA (and apparently Land Of OZ too). That's why all systems come with "For racing
or off-road use
only" disclaimers. Geez ... forgot to put in the disclaimers, sorry folks, here ya' go.
DISCLAIMERS:
- THIS MODIFICATION IS INTENDED FOR OFF-ROAD OR RACING APPLICATIONS ONLY, WHERE ADDITIONAL LIGHTING IS CONSIDERED A SAFETY FEATURE.
- IF YOU FEEL GUILTY PUTTING A STOCK HALOGEN BULB BACK IN TO PASS INSPECTION THEN SWITCHING BACK TO HID ... DON'T DO THIS MOD.
- IF YOU DO NOT POSSES THE TECHNICAL SKILLS, TOOLS AND/OR COMMON SENSE TO ADJUST YOUR HEADLIGHT IN A SUITABLE MANNER AS TO NOT ANNOY/ENDANGER ONCOMING TRAFFIC ... DON'T DO THIS MOD.
Part of the "illegality" is rational and part stupid US DOT (Dept. Of Transportation) bureaucracy.
Rational Part: HID retrofits almost always change beam patterns (as shown in Part 1 of this mod), without readjusting headlights to compensate, oncoming drivers could be subjected to additional glare, and this could range from annoying to truly dangerous. On cars multiply this factor by 2 (lights) and the problem is aggravated.
Stupid DOT Bureaucracy Part: Ok, PARTS be more accurate

In many (all?) states it's illegal for anyone but a "qualified" mechanic to adjust your headlights. As we know this is rocket science, requiring specialized training and expensive sophisticated equipment.
IF DOT hasn't wasted a sh#tload of taxpayer money conducting studies, employing bureaucrats, passing laws, amending laws (oops, must now go back and re-study ... insert perpetual loop diagram here) then moron taxpayers should certainly not be allowed to tinker with such complex dangerous technology.
The ticket you get for "illegal headlights" is likely to be more costly than one for blowing through a red-light or stop sign because you were texting, Twittering, Tweeting, applying make-up, awed by new I-Phone beer glass app etc. Yeah, that makes a LOT of sense.

End rant, without apology.
Last edited by LongmontKLXr; Dec 9, 2009 at 03:20 PM.
I have another post started on lights, visibility etc and this caught my eye.
I noticed the Kensun HID kits on ebay with great overall reviews. At about $70 I wonder if this should be the way I go.
I noticed the Kensun HID kits on ebay with great overall reviews. At about $70 I wonder if this should be the way I go.
I have seen people waterproof R/C car electronics with the Plasti-Kote spray. They run the cars completely underwater after waterproofing them. In case you didn't pick up on the hint yet...
Buy a can of spray-on Plasti-Kote, and spray the circuit board and connections. You will then be able to submerge it without any problems.
Buy a can of spray-on Plasti-Kote, and spray the circuit board and connections. You will then be able to submerge it without any problems.
Hmm, do tell your experience. How is the beam pattern driving at night? How do other cars react? Also, where did you pick it up?
Last edited by stephenmarklay; Mar 28, 2012 at 09:47 PM.


