Ticking on engine startup, goes away when warm but audible @ 4000-6000rpm

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  #11  
Old 03-14-2014, 05:36 AM
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Don't want to panic you, but mine made a godawful ticking noise when the piston went bad :X Did the same thing. Cold, and at certain RPMs. Sounded awful.

~15k miles basically had to replace the piston and pieces associated. Bike sounds quieter than new, honestly. Or at least quieter than I ever remember.
 
  #12  
Old 03-14-2014, 12:59 PM
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I think you have some part loose. Reproduce the sound while on the stand with a stethascope and find it's origination before tearing the engine apart.
 
  #13  
Old 03-14-2014, 04:54 PM
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cheers to everyone for the advice

I'm off to get a coffee then home again to open the mule up

I realized my larger diameter front tire has been lying to me and the bike is closer to 12000km than 10000, so valves are a likely culprit

will post any findings

thanks
 
  #14  
Old 03-14-2014, 05:08 PM
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Usually if it starts hard its the valves. But that's just one possible sign. If it goes away when warmed up then the krieger cam chain tensioner is doing it's job. On a cold engine install it just so you can hear ticking, then when the bike warms up the ticking goes away. Metal expands as it heats up.
 
  #15  
Old 03-15-2014, 03:29 PM
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Good Morning,

I hope that you have solved your ticking issue, but in case you haven't, I'll throw my two cents in. My bike (2009 351) doesn't tick after 10,xxx miles with the stock Kawasaki Cam-Chain Tensioner. I used to worry about every little sound about 8000 miles ago. After attempting to diagnose every little thing, I resigned to the fact that it had a unique sound. I have been enjoying riding ever since.

Don't get me wrong, a sudden change or an obviously loud or metallic contact type sound can signify any number of bad things. I could be anything from valves out of spec to borderline valve strikes (if they are really loud). What most members have found is that their Cam-Chain tension was out of adjustment or their valves were out of spec.

I would hypothesize that it has something to do with your valves considering you have a Krieger Manual Tensioner. I would however completely reset/reinstall your Krieger when you check your valves. Then you can rule out both of those things. As others have said I would also check the number of links/pins between your cam sprocket TDC alignment marks, 32 pins I do believe.

All that being said, my KLX will never sound like my Ninja 1000 or my Four-Wheeler, it is a small displacement thumper. I have had to tell my OCD self that all the time and stop worrying about every perceived noise that I hear on my vehicles.

I do hope you locate or have already located your problem. I know how you feel.
 
  #16  
Old 03-16-2014, 03:31 PM
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No need to reinstall, it's such a simple design versus the OEM, which would need reinstalled to reset it, that all that is needed is a readjustment to verify it is set properly. I will also state the fact that the HyVo design chain is there to both run quieter than a roller chain and because it will last the life of the bike if kept in a reasonable range of adjustment, which a failed OEM tensioner or an ignored manual tensioner will not do. An OEM tensioner that works properly or a manual tensioner adjusted when there is clicking at full operating temps will keep the chain working for tens and tens of thousands of miles - or kliks. My 650 has over 30,000 miles (about 45,000 km) with no problems what so ever and only 4 adjustments, 3 close together as new chains seated in. Last has been over 10,000 miles ago or so... I forget.

Just do the cold adjustment again. if you want to get really picky, then do the fine tuning adjustment. But I'd definitely verify the higher rpm buzz is from the cam drive. The noise could be a panel rattling somewhere. I used to have my one side cover on my 650 buzz against the tank.
 

Last edited by klx678; 03-16-2014 at 03:37 PM.
  #17  
Old 03-19-2014, 04:06 AM
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*update*

I did my own valves, exhaust was a bit tight. In fact it was to the same spec as the posted valve tutorial on the forum

How lucky for me, was as easy as trading my shims (3mm) for some 2.90mm at the local shop

Total cost: 0.00

Reset the Krieger Cam chain tensioner.

No more ticking at startup, no more "noticeable" noise during operation. After realizing that my larger front diameter tire had been offsetting my odometer, the valve service made sense and of course solved my issue. I wouldn't have been as mystified had my odometer said 12000km.

As a dj and music promoter, subtle changes in noise are something I notice, but with time am beginning to accept as something that comes with the territory as mentioned.. Perhaps I wouldnt be so neurotic with a used bike, but I have this habit of getting new bikes and riding the hell out of them and all of a sudden it sounds different than when I bought it If it was a loudspeaker or monitor or other piece of equipment I would be doing the same thing, trying to find teh source of the noise...


they always said I was a good listener
 
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