Is there a Starting Problem Fix?
ORIGINAL: gerrynolan
The big question is....what is actually taking place when you tip the bike? Is there a transfer of fuel from bowl to tank? Is an air pocket Un-trapped? Maybe the float un-sticks? I guess the easiest fix for now is to just tip the bike. Does it matter which direction we tip it? Also, does any gas leak out of the tank?(that would Suck)
The big question is....what is actually taking place when you tip the bike? Is there a transfer of fuel from bowl to tank? Is an air pocket Un-trapped? Maybe the float un-sticks? I guess the easiest fix for now is to just tip the bike. Does it matter which direction we tip it? Also, does any gas leak out of the tank?(that would Suck)
ORIGINAL: NoelKLX
Hi All,
Such an interesting thread I thought I better register with KF and give you my tuppence worth as I also have experienced the same problem with my 6 mth old klx250 . While I am not an expert I believe the causes of the problem (as advised by local bike mechanics and which some of you have touched on),are as follows:
1. the carbie is highly tuned with very fine jets to meet EPA standards - that is why I get such good fuel economy of30+ Km/litre compared to my mate's Honda 250 which runs about 20+ Km/litre.
2. fuel is not as good as it used to be because of the various additives which can 'gunk up' the system (read jets) - that is why it is necessary to empty the carbie bowl either by turning the tap off and keeping the motor running until it is dry or uncsrewing thesmall bolt at the bottom of the carbie bowl.
The other solution if to rejet the carbie.
What I have begun to experiment with is - once I determined how long it took to empty the carbie with the motor running, I would in future only run the motor for 2/3 to 3/4 of that time and then turn off the ignition switch. That way I avoid the motor getting too hot (and ultimately damaging valves) because fuel mixture does not become too lean. The next time I go to start the bike the carbie is only 1/4 full with old fuel and is filled up with fresh fuel when I start up. Seems to be working OK for me at this time (in a hot climate).
By the way I suggest this is a design fault in the KLX250 and I wouldn't be surprised if some dealers rejet the bikes before they sell them so as to avoid warranty hassles and to ensure the model doesn't get a bad name!!
Noel
Hi All,
Such an interesting thread I thought I better register with KF and give you my tuppence worth as I also have experienced the same problem with my 6 mth old klx250 . While I am not an expert I believe the causes of the problem (as advised by local bike mechanics and which some of you have touched on),are as follows:
1. the carbie is highly tuned with very fine jets to meet EPA standards - that is why I get such good fuel economy of30+ Km/litre compared to my mate's Honda 250 which runs about 20+ Km/litre.
2. fuel is not as good as it used to be because of the various additives which can 'gunk up' the system (read jets) - that is why it is necessary to empty the carbie bowl either by turning the tap off and keeping the motor running until it is dry or uncsrewing thesmall bolt at the bottom of the carbie bowl.
The other solution if to rejet the carbie.
What I have begun to experiment with is - once I determined how long it took to empty the carbie with the motor running, I would in future only run the motor for 2/3 to 3/4 of that time and then turn off the ignition switch. That way I avoid the motor getting too hot (and ultimately damaging valves) because fuel mixture does not become too lean. The next time I go to start the bike the carbie is only 1/4 full with old fuel and is filled up with fresh fuel when I start up. Seems to be working OK for me at this time (in a hot climate).
By the way I suggest this is a design fault in the KLX250 and I wouldn't be surprised if some dealers rejet the bikes before they sell them so as to avoid warranty hassles and to ensure the model doesn't get a bad name!!
Noel
ORIGINAL: dmar
pulling out the choke slowly when starting works, I do it all the time. I just started it up after it sat for a month and it was 30 degrees.I did not drain the bowl when I parked her either. Some others on this site also do this, that is where I got the idea.
pulling out the choke slowly when starting works, I do it all the time. I just started it up after it sat for a month and it was 30 degrees.I did not drain the bowl when I parked her either. Some others on this site also do this, that is where I got the idea.
If its hard to start. Keep cranking. With the weather turning cold (40's and colder), the KLX is turning into a dog to start. Choke out and keep cranking. Evently it will start a few more seconds later. Leave the choke out until RPM's hit about 3k to 3.5k.
Guess what?..mentioned to my dad (retired automotive mechanic and millwright) what the bike does..first thing he asked was if there was a vent off of the gas cap..no..maybe getting vapour locked and tipping the bike unlocks this..he said to try and open the gas cap before starting it. It would be a simple thing to try, but now i will have to wait a week or so before doing this as i just had my bike running a day or so ago...so my question is ...Is there anyone with the clark tank having the start problem? (heard clark tanks have the vent hose on the gas cap)
I have a vent hose on my CRF and it doesn't matter. I am experiencing the same problems as my dad with his 250. Last time we tried starting it, it took two hair dryers and 5 minutes on the carb to get it to fire. Granted it was about 20 degrees F, but still, the 4 wheelers have never had a problem but these new dirt bikes do.
This was written by a nine time XR champ.
Four strokes don’t foul spark plugs like two strokes, so don’t jump to the conclusion that this is the problem if the bike won’t start. Spark plugs can get a drop of water on the electrode and stop working, so, if the bike has been around a lot of moisture, you might need to pull the plug out and dry it off. When I know my bike is jetted properly and my starting method is correct, the first thing I do if the bike won’t start immediately is drain the carburetor. It’s easy to get some water in fuel, and fuel does go bad when sitting in a carburetor for a while.
This was written by a nine time XR champ.
Four strokes don’t foul spark plugs like two strokes, so don’t jump to the conclusion that this is the problem if the bike won’t start. Spark plugs can get a drop of water on the electrode and stop working, so, if the bike has been around a lot of moisture, you might need to pull the plug out and dry it off. When I know my bike is jetted properly and my starting method is correct, the first thing I do if the bike won’t start immediately is drain the carburetor. It’s easy to get some water in fuel, and fuel does go bad when sitting in a carburetor for a while.
Sta-Bil does make a difference, this is not an issue around fuel going bad, I run it in my bikes all year long, doesn't matter. It is also not a vent issue, if it was, the problem would show itself more often, especially when riding in rough terrain where the tank would build up pressure and need to vent.
Also, the problem is not a stuck float or leaking needle seat as if it were the carb would overflow into the engine and into the oil and or leak onto the floor.
I am not sure what causes this, but this issue is not isolated to our bikes, my sons 50 has the same issue as do many other small bore bikes, I suspect it has to have something with the size of the bowl and the engine vacuum, but I am just guessing.
For me, letting the engine run out of fuel works fine. And contrary to some belief, while you may run lean for a few strokes of the engine as it runs out of fuel you will not burn a valve or cause engine damage. The engine is not running so lean, nor is it running at such high temps or RPM's where you need to concern yourself with burning a valve.
Also, the problem is not a stuck float or leaking needle seat as if it were the carb would overflow into the engine and into the oil and or leak onto the floor.
I am not sure what causes this, but this issue is not isolated to our bikes, my sons 50 has the same issue as do many other small bore bikes, I suspect it has to have something with the size of the bowl and the engine vacuum, but I am just guessing.
For me, letting the engine run out of fuel works fine. And contrary to some belief, while you may run lean for a few strokes of the engine as it runs out of fuel you will not burn a valve or cause engine damage. The engine is not running so lean, nor is it running at such high temps or RPM's where you need to concern yourself with burning a valve.
I went to go to work this morning and because it was 20 degrees out and I didn't want to wait 20 minutes for the Dodge to warm up I was going to ride the wife's bike since my tabs are now expired on the KLX, (getting them today) anyway I went to start her bike, and remembered that I had forgot to shut off the gas when I rode it on Friday. Well it cranked for about 10 seconds before the battery went dead. So I jumped on the KLX and of course since I rode it on Saturday and had shut off the gas it started right up. Now here is where it gets interesting. I pulled out of the driveway and hit the blacktop at 3mph and did a 180 degree spin without even giving it and gas. The roads are so slick that I almost turned around and put the bike back, but I said forget it. Needless to say the ride to work, albeit 2 miles was scary to say the least. The hill up to work had a trace of sand on the edge and I hugged that all the way up. Finally when the lawn was in sight I got off the blacktop and hit the grass and then it was go time, oh sure its frozen too, but 90% better to ride on. Maybe some ice tires are in order.


