Surge at 6500 rpm at highway speed
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,414
From: Missouri
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Two things:
1- i'm bumping this post for the benefit of any late-comers that may not have seen it. I've been looking for this solution for 6 months and finally found it. Smoothed out my throttle response and eliminated the bucking at about 7k
2- i did the "T" method where i soldered a wire onto the terminal wire in the connector and ran it out to the ground screw. Unfortunately after about 20 minutes of riding the battery died and left me on the side of the road. I verified continuity between the ground screw and the terminal connector where it would plug into the regulator. So.....whats wrong here?
Also -whats the trick to removing those terminal clips from the connector? I worked in there with a small screwdriver but cant get it to release to check it out.
For clarity - If i change this to the one wire method, i would clip the black yellow wire going down to the loom and ground that end, not the end with the terminal clip...right? Its not clear to me from reading through these posts....the "harness" end refers to the wires running out and down the bike frame right?
1- i'm bumping this post for the benefit of any late-comers that may not have seen it. I've been looking for this solution for 6 months and finally found it. Smoothed out my throttle response and eliminated the bucking at about 7k
2- i did the "T" method where i soldered a wire onto the terminal wire in the connector and ran it out to the ground screw. Unfortunately after about 20 minutes of riding the battery died and left me on the side of the road. I verified continuity between the ground screw and the terminal connector where it would plug into the regulator. So.....whats wrong here?
Also -whats the trick to removing those terminal clips from the connector? I worked in there with a small screwdriver but cant get it to release to check it out.
For clarity - If i change this to the one wire method, i would clip the black yellow wire going down to the loom and ground that end, not the end with the terminal clip...right? Its not clear to me from reading through these posts....the "harness" end refers to the wires running out and down the bike frame right?
If you are doing a single wire mod and cut the existing harness you want to ground the end of the wire coming out of the plug, not the end that goes into the wire harness. So, cut the wire going into the plug and take the piece of wire that is still sticking out of the plug and ground that.
Since you added a wire there should not be a problem unless you are not getting a connection at the plug on the blades/pin of the rectifier.
Last edited by wildcard; Jul 10, 2017 at 03:02 AM.
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Joined: Apr 2017
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That's all I can think of - which is why I need to remove that pin and check it but I can't get it out. What's the trick?
i did the T method to avoid all this and yet here I am.
and once more for clarity - the one wire method - would you pull the pin out and ground that, or snip midway down the wire and ground that as in connecting the recto directly to ground and leave the one in the wire bundle floating. Or could u also just snip the wire and ground both sides of that snip and accomplish the same thing?
i did the T method to avoid all this and yet here I am.
and once more for clarity - the one wire method - would you pull the pin out and ground that, or snip midway down the wire and ground that as in connecting the recto directly to ground and leave the one in the wire bundle floating. Or could u also just snip the wire and ground both sides of that snip and accomplish the same thing?
Last edited by sphen; Jul 10, 2017 at 01:39 PM.
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4,647
From: Delaware, Ohio
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Spliced in keeping original ground as well as new one. But my hesitation around 6000 was a lean needle, not the ground. I did the ground first since it was the lowest cost.
By the way this ground was mentioned in the other thread you had going.
By the way this ground was mentioned in the other thread you had going.
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,414
From: Missouri
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I just slid a tiny screwdriver into the plug and the blade connector came out when I added my ground. I couldn't get solder to stick to the original so I just crimped a new connector to the old wire and my new ground and reassembled.
and once more for clarity - the one wire method - would you pull the pin out and ground that, or snip midway down the wire and ground that as in connecting the recto directly to ground and leave the one in the wire bundle floating. Or could u also just snip the wire and ground both sides of that snip and accomplish the same thing?
With the one wire method you don't want to pull the connector and ground it as you would be "grounding the ground". Connecting the rectifier directly to the engine case is the correct way to do it, the wire remaining in the bundle is the existing ground you would have just replaced.
Yes, you could ground both ends of the snip, certainly wouldn't hurt anything.
Last edited by wildcard; Jul 10, 2017 at 04:15 PM.
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Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 162
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Alright thanks.
I couldn't get the terminal out so I flowed some solder down and grafted another wire. Verified by continuity check. Best I can figure I did something to the terminal when i tried to remove it and it's not contacting the contact on the recto. Or either isn't seated right.
Is there a way I can verify that the recto itself is connected to the battery (besides 20 minutes to breakdown lol)?
I couldn't get the terminal out so I flowed some solder down and grafted another wire. Verified by continuity check. Best I can figure I did something to the terminal when i tried to remove it and it's not contacting the contact on the recto. Or either isn't seated right.
Is there a way I can verify that the recto itself is connected to the battery (besides 20 minutes to breakdown lol)?
Last edited by sphen; Jul 10, 2017 at 08:19 PM.
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Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 161
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Well, it sounds like you got the concept right but somehow it appears you lost the connection between the rectifier and ground.
Side note - why would you want to do the "one wire method" when enhancing the ground is the desired benefit? Can't overground the ground.
Side side note - I had good luck with this mod with notable improvement higher up on the tach. I used a tiny flat- blade screwdriver to depress the tab that holds the terminal into the connector. Look closely at other terminals in the connector and you can see the tab that needs to be depressed. Good luck!
Side note - why would you want to do the "one wire method" when enhancing the ground is the desired benefit? Can't overground the ground.
Side side note - I had good luck with this mod with notable improvement higher up on the tach. I used a tiny flat- blade screwdriver to depress the tab that holds the terminal into the connector. Look closely at other terminals in the connector and you can see the tab that needs to be depressed. Good luck!
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Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 162
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Finally got the terminal out but destroyed it in the process. Will get another, re wire everything and then try again.
again, all I can figure is that terminal distorted and is not contacting the tab on the recto socket.
again, all I can figure is that terminal distorted and is not contacting the tab on the recto socket.
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Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 28
From: Pennsylvania
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Just for understanding, I hooked up the ground like I did for 2 reasons. I have no idea where the ground going to the rec/reg comes from or goes to. If I had .5 volt drop, then if anything else in in the circuit (black/y) it would also have a bad ground.
The frame of the bike and engine are all negative or ground in the entire system so to me it does not matter where or how its hooked up as long as its a good clean solid connection. I even thought of cleaning the mount, bolts and frame of the bike so the reg/rec had a good chassis ground too. I do this frequently. Clean off the paint from a component and make sure the case is grounded well to the frame where I clean off the paint too.
I would like to see where the black/yellow wire comes from. I have not looked yet. Been away on a 3 day 4 state 1,000 mile ride on a different bike. Tomorrow its back to the KLX riding it to work.
I would like to hear from anybody that does this and the results.
David
The frame of the bike and engine are all negative or ground in the entire system so to me it does not matter where or how its hooked up as long as its a good clean solid connection. I even thought of cleaning the mount, bolts and frame of the bike so the reg/rec had a good chassis ground too. I do this frequently. Clean off the paint from a component and make sure the case is grounded well to the frame where I clean off the paint too.
I would like to see where the black/yellow wire comes from. I have not looked yet. Been away on a 3 day 4 state 1,000 mile ride on a different bike. Tomorrow its back to the KLX riding it to work.
I would like to hear from anybody that does this and the results.
David
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Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 5
Thank you
Just found this thread in 2024, bought an '09 in great shape recently, and that sputter was making me want to second guess buying it and quit riding altogether.
Simple fix, thanks so much for your detail and dedication to solving this. Never would have found it myself.
Cheers!
Simple fix, thanks so much for your detail and dedication to solving this. Never would have found it myself.
Cheers!
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