Surge at 6500 rpm at highway speed

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #191  
Old 07-10-2017, 02:56 AM
wildcard's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Missouri
Posts: 1,414
Default

Originally Posted by sphen
Two things:

1- i'm bumping this post for the benefit of any late-comers that may not have seen it. I've been looking for this solution for 6 months and finally found it. Smoothed out my throttle response and eliminated the bucking at about 7k

2- i did the "T" method where i soldered a wire onto the terminal wire in the connector and ran it out to the ground screw. Unfortunately after about 20 minutes of riding the battery died and left me on the side of the road. I verified continuity between the ground screw and the terminal connector where it would plug into the regulator. So.....whats wrong here?

Also -whats the trick to removing those terminal clips from the connector? I worked in there with a small screwdriver but cant get it to release to check it out.

For clarity - If i change this to the one wire method, i would clip the black yellow wire going down to the loom and ground that end, not the end with the terminal clip...right? Its not clear to me from reading through these posts....the "harness" end refers to the wires running out and down the bike frame right?
Sounds like you aren't getting a connection between the plug and the rectifier if your bike is no longer charging.

If you are doing a single wire mod and cut the existing harness you want to ground the end of the wire coming out of the plug, not the end that goes into the wire harness. So, cut the wire going into the plug and take the piece of wire that is still sticking out of the plug and ground that.

Since you added a wire there should not be a problem unless you are not getting a connection at the plug on the blades/pin of the rectifier.
 

Last edited by wildcard; 07-10-2017 at 03:02 AM.
  #192  
Old 07-10-2017, 03:56 AM
sphen's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 162
Default

That's all I can think of - which is why I need to remove that pin and check it but I can't get it out. What's the trick?

i did the T method to avoid all this and yet here I am.



and once more for clarity - the one wire method - would you pull the pin out and ground that, or snip midway down the wire and ground that as in connecting the recto directly to ground and leave the one in the wire bundle floating. Or could u also just snip the wire and ground both sides of that snip and accomplish the same thing?
 

Last edited by sphen; 07-10-2017 at 01:39 PM.
  #193  
Old 07-10-2017, 02:30 PM
klx678's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Delaware, Ohio
Posts: 4,509
Default

Spliced in keeping original ground as well as new one. But my hesitation around 6000 was a lean needle, not the ground. I did the ground first since it was the lowest cost.

By the way this ground was mentioned in the other thread you had going.
 
  #194  
Old 07-10-2017, 04:12 PM
wildcard's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Missouri
Posts: 1,414
Default

Originally Posted by sphen
That's all I can think of - which is why I need to remove that pin and check it but I can't get it out. What's the trick?

i did the T method to avoid all this and yet here I am.

I just slid a tiny screwdriver into the plug and the blade connector came out when I added my ground. I couldn't get solder to stick to the original so I just crimped a new connector to the old wire and my new ground and reassembled.


and once more for clarity - the one wire method - would you pull the pin out and ground that, or snip midway down the wire and ground that as in connecting the recto directly to ground and leave the one in the wire bundle floating. Or could u also just snip the wire and ground both sides of that snip and accomplish the same thing?

With the one wire method you don't want to pull the connector and ground it as you would be "grounding the ground". Connecting the rectifier directly to the engine case is the correct way to do it, the wire remaining in the bundle is the existing ground you would have just replaced.

Yes, you could ground both ends of the snip, certainly wouldn't hurt anything.
 

Last edited by wildcard; 07-10-2017 at 04:15 PM.
  #195  
Old 07-10-2017, 05:25 PM
sphen's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 162
Default

Alright thanks.

I couldn't get the terminal out so I flowed some solder down and grafted another wire. Verified by continuity check. Best I can figure I did something to the terminal when i tried to remove it and it's not contacting the contact on the recto. Or either isn't seated right.

Is there a way I can verify that the recto itself is connected to the battery (besides 20 minutes to breakdown lol)?
 

Last edited by sphen; 07-10-2017 at 08:19 PM.
  #196  
Old 07-10-2017, 11:42 PM
timc63's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 161
Default

Well, it sounds like you got the concept right but somehow it appears you lost the connection between the rectifier and ground.

Side note - why would you want to do the "one wire method" when enhancing the ground is the desired benefit? Can't overground the ground.

Side side note - I had good luck with this mod with notable improvement higher up on the tach. I used a tiny flat- blade screwdriver to depress the tab that holds the terminal into the connector. Look closely at other terminals in the connector and you can see the tab that needs to be depressed. Good luck!
 
  #197  
Old 07-10-2017, 11:52 PM
sphen's Avatar
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 162
Default

Finally got the terminal out but destroyed it in the process. Will get another, re wire everything and then try again.

again, all I can figure is that terminal distorted and is not contacting the tab on the recto socket.
 
  #198  
Old 08-02-2019, 01:09 PM
Foxtrapper's Avatar
Junior Member
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 28
Default

Originally Posted by David R
Just for understanding, I hooked up the ground like I did for 2 reasons. I have no idea where the ground going to the rec/reg comes from or goes to. If I had .5 volt drop, then if anything else in in the circuit (black/y) it would also have a bad ground.

The frame of the bike and engine are all negative or ground in the entire system so to me it does not matter where or how its hooked up as long as its a good clean solid connection. I even thought of cleaning the mount, bolts and frame of the bike so the reg/rec had a good chassis ground too. I do this frequently. Clean off the paint from a component and make sure the case is grounded well to the frame where I clean off the paint too.

I would like to see where the black/yellow wire comes from. I have not looked yet. Been away on a 3 day 4 state 1,000 mile ride on a different bike. Tomorrow its back to the KLX riding it to work.

I would like to hear from anybody that does this and the results.

David
I did this a few weeks ago to try to resolve that sputter, I have ridden a bunch since and the sputter is still there, no change. I don't know what to do next. very frustrating. I have messed with the air fuel screw with no change. I am jetted 124 3rd notch, KDX snorkel, opened up stock exhaust, TwinAir filter.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Byrdjo
KLX 250S
9
03-10-2015 10:09 PM
CC_Rider
KLX 250S
12
09-04-2014 08:33 PM
Mammothmafia
KLX 250S
43
07-25-2013 03:14 AM
Brieninsac
KLX 250S
11
05-01-2013 05:23 AM
Juggernaut
KLX 250S
6
06-16-2010 12:59 AM



Quick Reply: Surge at 6500 rpm at highway speed



All times are GMT. The time now is 04:45 AM.