stock spring possible replacement question
#21
@Abramsgunner Last night I used the straps and boom the shock came right out. Nice and smooth lol. Thanks again for the help and thanks to all those adding to the thread.
I posted two pics below. One for preadjust and the 2nd for post adjust. Wondering if I should lower the spring more or that might be good? I'll post a few more pics once I get her back together.
@@durielk I might give that a try next time using the rafters
Before:
After adjusting:
I posted two pics below. One for preadjust and the 2nd for post adjust. Wondering if I should lower the spring more or that might be good? I'll post a few more pics once I get her back together.
@@durielk I might give that a try next time using the rafters
Before:
After adjusting:
#22
Only way to know for sure is to measure sag (ride height with you on the bike). You already know your spring is really too light.... but you should be able to add enough preload to get your initial ride height pretty close.
You'll have to do final adjustment with the shock on the bike.
Note: I swapped out my rear spring to the 7.0 a few nights ago. When putting it back together, I left the lock collar about a half inch above the adjusting collar, and when I went to tighten it... it would not move. Turns out it was high enough to get hung on the band-clamp that holds the carb boot to the airbox. I reached in from the top with a long screwdriver and levered the rubber boot away from the shock a bit and then turned the lock ring by hand. You initially said you couldn't turn the collars with the shock installed... maybe you had the same problem.
You'll have to do final adjustment with the shock on the bike.
Note: I swapped out my rear spring to the 7.0 a few nights ago. When putting it back together, I left the lock collar about a half inch above the adjusting collar, and when I went to tighten it... it would not move. Turns out it was high enough to get hung on the band-clamp that holds the carb boot to the airbox. I reached in from the top with a long screwdriver and levered the rubber boot away from the shock a bit and then turned the lock ring by hand. You initially said you couldn't turn the collars with the shock installed... maybe you had the same problem.
#24
Yes, I got to go on a short ride... and for my weight (235ish), I like the 7.0 better, so I'm now running .48 forks and 7.0 shock.
Most of the forum information was based on the '06-'07 model and most folks were lighter than I am. Many of the forum guys were running springs around .44/6.0
Racetech's recommendations seemed much higher than what most people were running... I believe it had me at .50 forks and 7.2 shock
So I went conservative and jumped from stock to .46/6.2 combo and also did Gold Valves in the forks. Major improvement, but not quite right.
I then jumped to .48 fork springs, and liked them better... followed shortly by the 6.6 and Gold Valve upgrade for the shock. Another big improvement.
Finally, I was on Cogent's site and noticed they recommended and sold the 7.0 (along with .48 forks) for those over 220lbs, So I decided to give it a try. 7.0 = More better (but the 6.6 wasn't bad).
I think I'm done now as far as suspension is concerned. Huge improvement over stock, and I don't have the skills to take advantage of anything better (and more expensive).
331 Kit will be here tomorrow!
PS: Shock springs for fat guys are not that easy to find. Racetech lists their shock springs up to 6.4, and then links to alternative for higher... but finding a stronger spring that is sure to fit is a pain.
On Ebay, DSP has springs listed for an older KX model that goes up to a 6.6 and fits perfectly.
Cogent sells the 7.0 which is also a perfect fit.
Otherwise, you can get springs made to your specs at Cannon Racecraft
Most of the forum information was based on the '06-'07 model and most folks were lighter than I am. Many of the forum guys were running springs around .44/6.0
Racetech's recommendations seemed much higher than what most people were running... I believe it had me at .50 forks and 7.2 shock
So I went conservative and jumped from stock to .46/6.2 combo and also did Gold Valves in the forks. Major improvement, but not quite right.
I then jumped to .48 fork springs, and liked them better... followed shortly by the 6.6 and Gold Valve upgrade for the shock. Another big improvement.
Finally, I was on Cogent's site and noticed they recommended and sold the 7.0 (along with .48 forks) for those over 220lbs, So I decided to give it a try. 7.0 = More better (but the 6.6 wasn't bad).
I think I'm done now as far as suspension is concerned. Huge improvement over stock, and I don't have the skills to take advantage of anything better (and more expensive).
331 Kit will be here tomorrow!
PS: Shock springs for fat guys are not that easy to find. Racetech lists their shock springs up to 6.4, and then links to alternative for higher... but finding a stronger spring that is sure to fit is a pain.
On Ebay, DSP has springs listed for an older KX model that goes up to a 6.6 and fits perfectly.
Cogent sells the 7.0 which is also a perfect fit.
Otherwise, you can get springs made to your specs at Cannon Racecraft
Last edited by Abramsgunner; 02-20-2019 at 06:41 PM.
#25
@Abramsgunner I finally was able to install the shock. Not that bad at all. The only trouble I had was with the dogbone seals falling to the ground each time I tried to slide the bolt through. I have not had a chance to take it for a real ride yet but, the bike feels so much better. Feels firm and also adjusted the dampening which helped. Sitting on her man what a difference. I do feel a little back high now as if i was getting ready for a holeshot (well maybe not that bad ) but, that have to give a real ride to see and also do some more fine tuning.
I did some other mods as well and will post some before and after pics.
Thanks again brother for all the information BIG BIG help. Thanks!
I did some other mods as well and will post some before and after pics.
Thanks again brother for all the information BIG BIG help. Thanks!
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