Will be gratefull if you can get info. Not sure yet if I need more fuel, running great on acceleration and full throttle, just the OFF IDLE jerking, bogging thats freaking me out. May even be too rich at that low throttle setting.
Strange thing is that the bike runs perfectly from cold. No issues. As soon as it warms up, acts like a bitch.

 

OK guys, should I buy this API unlimited for my 300. For those that have fitted it, give me some honest feedback. Will it cure this jerking and spluttering on low throttle cruising.
How do I buy one? Do the API guys ship internationally or can I send you some cash Joel, and you courier one to me?
I checked their Website and it looks like Greek to me, Or maybe Thai?

 

Hey Graham, don't panic just yet! I recon the EJK will work with some fine tuning & seeing as your only running a the 300 it can't be as hard as a 330 or 351 to get working! Jeff really knows his stuff & if he says it's running a bit rich, then have a look at the plug.

Got a Thai person at my work to call APiTech today & if all else fails they can supply a programmable ECU with the 300 MAP pre-loaded......a good last resort plan.

 

Graham, I'd agree with Joel on that:
From what you describe you may be running too rich at low rev, you have to tune your injection controller, maybe even removing the lid of your intake may help balancing your mix.

The EJK is considerably simpler to tune than the API that's for sure.

For the info, I do have an API and the 300cc kit but i'm not able to fine tune the API ECU myself, too many variables.
The bike runs OK as far as i can tell but: i am not sure i'm getting all the power from the kit since i'm still running it in, my bike sucks gaz like a SUV, and it pops loudly on deceleration!

300 kit/API unlimited box/2BR full system exhaust/DNA air filter without air filter cover

 

After waiting nearly 2 weeks for Mr Pattapong (head tech guy) at APi Tech to sort my bike out! Today I let my laptop get taken over remotely by online software called TEAMVIEWER! Very weird watching my mouse moving around & starting the Kawasaki API software & opening n closing folders etc.......so I plugged the USB into my bikes ECU, switched over control via TEAMVIEWER & sat back & let Mr Pattapong do some fine tuning my bike really needed. This is the future of tuning gentlemen, the 21st century is happening in my driveway in a 3rd world country.....very strange.

I was having problems with my idle speed which was high & erratic, as had a flat spot between 2000-3000rpm which caused the bike to cut out when hot at traffic light on occasions & loss of power between 5000-7000rpm & a few flat spots here & there. Top end power seems to be pretty good, as front wheel is lifting quite easily with standard gearing & the clutch is not happy in 1st or 2nd above 8000rpm if any feathering is going on....without the big bore or cams, this was never an issue!! HD clutch springs are on order!

The Pattapong session was about an hour with 2 test rides in between tuning. I got 4 mins on video with Pattapong doing his stuff......quite boring if your into CARBS etc. This was my second session with Mr Pattapong & with what I have seen & what I have on seen on my video clips i've shot, i'm quite happy to do some minor tuning on the APi software now. But without the 2 hour masterclass i got, this software is out of most peoples skill levels.....so be careful when you start playing with it!!

Now the bike runs really smooth in the lower rev range & idles at 1800rpm with no dramas or cutting out & very easy to ride in traffic now. The 330 kit with 101 webcams on an EFi is now at 99% perfect level. This has been a lot easier than i thought it was going to be BUT it ain't 100% yet

API unlimited ECU KLX250sf D-Tracker NOT tbr juicebox part 3.avi - YouTube

 

The main problem that I see API is the complexity of regulation. Too many parameters.

 

I am a bit confused about rich or lean as the bike runs pefectly when it is COLD, on start up. No issues, pulls clean from idle, no back fire on deceleration, Idles at 1300 RPM. I assume that the bike has an automatic choke or richer map for cold start, which now causes the bike to run perfectly.
As soon as the bike warms up, all the crap starts. I have to turn up the idle screw to 2000 RPM just to keep from cutting out. Clutch it to keep going below 3000 rpm. After 3000 Rpm it takes of like a rocket and revs out clean in all gears.

Did you do your top end conversion from new? How long are you planning to run it in?
Remember if you ran in your 250 properly, you can do a shorter run in for your new piston and rings. 1 tank of gas at low to intermittent load and after that your bike will benefit from an occasional run up to full revs and then back down, as well as loading in a high gear from low all the way up to flat out.
Chugging around at low revs for 1000 KM is going to more harm than good.

 

Jeff, is your bike running well, off idle up to 3000 RPM with the Power commander?
Cruising well at all speeds with no bogging or surging?

What is the function of the secondary throttle that you removed?

 

[Now the bike runs really smooth in the lower rev range & idles at 1800rpm with no dramas or cutting out & very easy to ride in traffic now. The 330 kit with 101 webcams on an EFi is now at 99% perfect level. This has been a lot easier than i thought it was going to be BUT it ain't 100% yet

Nice report Joel.

 

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