So...I got the bike pretty much in time to go to lockdown

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Old Apr 3, 2020 | 03:00 PM
  #21  
Radianrider's Avatar
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Turns out that I will have to drill out the bolt holes on the new rotor. Holes are definitely too small to match up with the bolts on the original rotor.

While I'm at it, anyone know for sure which way the top-hat shaped spacer is supposed to fit back on the hub? Bike Bandit schematic shows it with the "brim" on the outside up against the inside of the fork. Is that correct?

Thanks
 
Old Apr 3, 2020 | 03:14 PM
  #22  
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Found the info about the spacer in the service manual--all good!
 
Old Apr 3, 2020 | 04:01 PM
  #23  
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I’ve been sheltering on my motorcycles. Complies with all social distancing criteria, provides positive psychological benefits, provides exercise, and provides lots of fresh air. See? Motorcycles are healthy. Riding motorcycles is NOT cancelled.
 
Old Apr 3, 2020 | 09:24 PM
  #24  
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got the shock back installed and just sitting on the bike i can tell the difference, gonna be a fun summer
 
Old Apr 4, 2020 | 01:26 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Radianrider
Turns out that I will have to drill out the bolt holes on the new rotor. Holes are definitely too small to match up with the bolts on the original rotor.

While I'm at it, anyone know for sure which way the top-hat shaped spacer is supposed to fit back on the hub? Bike Bandit schematic shows it with the "brim" on the outside up against the inside of the fork. Is that correct?

Thanks
Yep, my bad. I drilled the rear sprocket, the front was on the bike when I got it.. I thought I had seen the same bikes listed on the list... wrong, but slightly bigger, no problem. Quick drill and save a bunch of money.
 
Old Apr 4, 2020 | 04:43 PM
  #26  
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Took care of this today. Wasn't as big a deal as I feared. Pulled one bolt off the existing rotor, measured it with digital calipers and found my drill bit that was just barely larger...then measured the step-down shoulder on the bolt and found my drill bit just a bit larger than that.

Pulled out the drill press and drilled out the smaller part of the hole, then exchanged the bits and drilled down into the shoulder area a bit at a time checking to make sure the head seated against the rotor, but that I didn't go in too far.

Once I got the first one right I measured the depth, marked the bit, took the front wheel and OEM rotor off and started in on the rest of holes on the KLX300 rotor. Took maybe 40 minutes to drill the holes, clean the rotor and re-install everything.

Braved a bit of rain and took the bike around the subdivision. No more pulsating brake!

This could be done with a hand drill--I used a drill press and like the degree of control it gave me.

The new rotor doesn't look as cool, but it cost me $26.00 as opposed to well over $100. Easy decision.

Thanks to KLX678 for the suggestion. Drilling out the rotor really was NOT a big deal (and I was really afraid it was going to be.) Turned out to be a very simple and easy job.

Now to figure out how to dull the FMF muffler down to have a riot as opposed to a full-on ear-splitting one.
 
Old Apr 4, 2020 | 11:14 PM
  #27  
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The carrier is not as hard as the braking surface, so drilling isn't so bad. I just apologize for not realizing it had been drilled on my bike. I did know the rear had to be drilled, but that's no excuse.
 
Old Jun 7, 2020 | 09:29 PM
  #28  
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Mark, if I was looking at a similar swap out but OS size, do you think or know if the caliper bracket would fit? 1st the caliper and 2nd the mounts??

Thanks Geo.
 
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