Thanks for your honest feedback!

I hear you on the underpowered stuff. But the thing is, I'm used to riding underpowered bikes haha! I started out on an old Kawasaki KE100, then moved on to Honda XL250's. None of those bikes have much power. I also rode my Dad's 2016 Yamaha XT250 over Labor Day weekend and while it too is somewhat underpowered, it's not much different than the old 250's I used to ride. I think it really depends on your point of reference and what you're used to.

I did some research and finally found some actual power specs someone posted on a different forum right from their owners manual...

2018 Kawasak KLX250 (U.S. version)
22hp at 7750RPM
15ft/lbs at 7500RPM

You're not going to be blowing people out of the water with those kinds of figures. But that's pretty much in line, or even slightly better, than the older Honda 250 bikes I used to ride all the time. So I guess what i'm saying is, I'm used to that lack of power on those types of bikes. I believe my Dad's XT250 has even less power, but it might weigh a little less too being air cooled, not sure, have to look that up.

I also had a 78 Suzuki PE250 2 stroke and that bike was crazy fast to me coming from slower 250cc 4 stroke bikes. That one was a lot of fun, but wasn't street legal, and it always seemed to need something. Always started and ran, but just always needed this or that, etc.

Part of me just wants to get a new one as I've never bought a new bike before. But then I know you save a bundle buying used. Thing is I really like the fuel injection on the new models, my Dad's has it and it's great. But 2018 is the first year for it on the KLX in the US, so there are no used models out there. All of them would be carbed models. I have seen some dealers that have leftover 2018's at a discount. Might be a good way to go if I end up getting a new one. Still not sure which way I want to go new vs used.

I've read good things about swapping to 13T front sprocket, opening up the airbox, putting on a FMF pipe, and either jetting the carb or tuning the ECM with a power commander on the fuel injected models. Probably all stuff I would eventually do at some point.

 

FWIW Don't know what rpm you consider lugging, but I don't let the rpm drop under 5000 rpm when actually riding rougher terrain or any sort of serious up hill It is only a 250 and the power is generated up high. In general riding except for light down town stuff I don't drop under 4000 rpm. Just the way it is with a small bore. You have to rev them to make time. I remember the first time I rode a CRF250R, a dog down low. Needs the revs to do that magic.

Fact is I don't let the KLX650 drop below 4000 rpm in rough terrain. Lugging is for my old trials bike and even then it did better using the rpm.

 

I've put maybe 1000 miles on a 2010 I got this summer. I'll just confirm the complaint about the cold-naturedness of these. I knew about it before I got it, but I didn't appreciate how annoying it is. And it appears that I'm one of the lucky ones since at least mine starts no problem. It just takes way too long to warm up and idle imho.

My only other disappointment is there is no freaking way I will ever get on a busy interstate for even a mile. Now, I knew this was no Road King, but I'm shocked how twitchy it is over about 65 in general. I've done 80 before and was okay, but the slightest wind....or, say, a giant freaking semi...will clinch your butt hole fast. Now maybe it's the tires, my weight, a characteristic of the class, whatever... but just be warned. Not necessarily a fault, perhaps just I was ignorant. It has severely shrunk my riding radius, though.

But I wanted something I could tinker, take to the local state forest ohv park. It's been a great success in that regard. I'm learning all kinds of mechanical skills, and haven't broke it yet. I find it to be powerful enough for what it is, and my last bike was a KTM 1190 so there's that. I appreciate the adjustable suspension which some others don't have I think. It's easy to work on with just an OEM manual, and never underestimate the value of a good community like here. I probably would have unloaded it already if not for some tips from these guys.

I've said more bad than good, but don't misunderstand: it's a solid bike as long as you appreciate it for what it is and don't have unreasonable expectations.

 

It is really a shame that most all owners will never feel the insane performance leap - from off idle to 9k rpm - by just doing the MCM (Marcelino Cam Mod) , bolting on a good slipon ( without any kind of "DB killer" plugging up its' rear end.) , pulling the lid off the airbox and setting up the CVK carb properly, for the aforementioned mods, using my DJ140/K152 - 1N setup...

Look below for my vid on how my bike effortlessly pulls power-only wheelies - in 100F weather, with a carb setup that was still in development (and far from finalized),,

 

 

No bias.. Just proven "bang-for-buck best choices" that create a whole new bike - performance wise..
I just let the facts speak for themselves with my same-bike, same-dyno, performance chartings - and for those that cannot understand dyno charts, the dynobutt assessments of those running my combos..

But subjectively, anyone running the correct mod combo will tell you it is a whole new bike performance wise.

I quickly found a chart from one of my threads - it is same-bike, same-dyno ,,,,,Stock VS Slipon+lidless airbox+ DJ 140 /1N CVK (carb) setup. No MCM involved - which would have significantly increased the TRQ below 7000 rpm - With MCM, the 16 lb ft threshold is passed at 5000 rpm instead of the (below) 6000 rpm and stays above 16 lb ft until 6500 rpm..

Regardless, even though the below bike is without benefit of the MCM, what you see (below) is an "insane performance leap"... Add MCM and you go beyond "insane" - perhaps "unholy"... Think,,,,, riding DeadPool..

 

Do the jetting, consider the MCM. Big difference.

Twitchy is partly nature of the beast, although personally I like a quick handling bike. It is relatively very light and quite a bit taller than a regular street bike so any cross wind will affect it more than any normal street bike. Dual sport tires will also contribute,the coarser the tread the more the squirm. When I first rode my brother's NX650 with the dual sport tires I was actually shocked and a bit scared by the feel when cornering. By the end of the day and 125 miles it was no longer an issue. My KLX650 with 60/40 tires corners with my friends on their supermotos and sport bikes. I've ridden the brand and model for so long it seems I'm fearless with them, but not really. They work that well and I have that much confidence in them and the bike.. The bike is at least as quick handling as the 250 if not quicker. I don't have near the time and miles on serious back roads with the 250, so I'm not quite in the same place with it as the 650.

Give it some time you may find it gets better as you ride more and more.

 

 

That is 10% increase, I would say that is SUBSTANTIAL!

 

Based on my experience with the MCM, it will win the on ramp race, shifting about 500 rpm sooner, letting the stronger mid range pull harder than it did before the mod. But that's just my experience. It also happens to conform to the dyno readings some have done, which I hadn't seen. More midrange HP and torque. It just signs off a bit sooner on top.

By the way, weather conditions will affect dyno readings unless done in a climate controlled lab where the temp and humidity are held steady. Probably not much, but definitely does have an effect in production of power. Plus dyno readings show the building of torque and horsepower from usually around 3000 rpm to 10,000 rpm for the KLX readings I've seen. That gap between the stock curves and the MCM curves running from around 3000 rpm to the horsepower peak says exactly what my butt did - it pulls stronger. Ain't no 650 or even 400, but stronger than the stock 250.