"Rim clean" method of setting tyre pressure

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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 04:37 AM
  #1  
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Default "Rim clean" method of setting tyre pressure

Hi guys

Not sure if any of you are familiar with the "Rim clean" method of determining the best tyre pressure for your bike, tyres, riding style, and terrain? I just came across it this weekend on the Dirt Bike World forums and thought I'd point it out to you guys.

According to this link (http://www.dirtbikeworld.net/forum/s...postcount=12):

There must be up to, a max of 4mm of a clean strip to the outside of the rim where it contacts the tyre. The tyre rolls over the rim somewhat, keeping this part of the rim clean! ALL off-road motorcycle tyres are DESIGNED to work this way! Front and rear. "D" shaped rims will require less rim clean for obvious reasons.
  • The tyre pressure is adjusted so that the proper amount of rim clean is visible. The tyre pressure will differ DRAMATICALLY from tyre to tyre, tube to tube, bike to bike, track to track!
  • A soft carcass tyre with a stock tube may require 16 psi in order to have the proper rim clean. A hard carcass tyre with a heavy duty tube, may only require 6psi! So if you have a stiff tyre, with a stiff tube, and you have say, 15psi in it, it is almost the equivalent to running 25psi!
  • It is very easy to run the wrong pressure, but most people don't know how to calibrate it. If you have the proper amount of rim clean, and your buddy has the exact same bike/tyres/tubes but he has no rim clean, you theoretically have say 10% MORE TRACTION! Now thats a big deal!
  • Tyre pressure (psi) is only a number, and that number is used to calibrate the rim clean...
There are pics to demonstrate what he's talking about in this post of the same thread: http://www.dirtbikeworld.net/forum/s...1&postcount=14

Anyone have any comments?
 
Old Jun 27, 2010 | 05:36 PM
  #2  
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All of that is true, but you have to use a rim lock at low dirt bike pressures.

I usually don't run with rim locks, now if I get asked to go for a total off-road ride and I'm dragging the klx there, I'll put on my non-dot Pirelli SuperSofts with rim locks and run about 4-6 psi. It makes a HUGE difference in soft sand.

Otherwise for dual sporting F'n around I run dot tires at about 16-18 psi.
 
Old Aug 26, 2012 | 01:53 AM
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Default Personal set up on your bike?

Originally Posted by Arctra
Hi guys

Not sure if any of you are familiar with the "Rim clean" method of determining the best tyre pressure for your bike, tyres, riding style, and terrain? I just came across it this weekend on the Dirt Bike World forums and thought I'd point it out to you guys.

Anyone have any comments?
G'day,

I'm from the Blue Mountains and have recently become the very proud owner of a KLX 250s 2009 model.

How'd you go with the rim clean method of setting tyre pressures? Any improvement?

I'm also intersted in the bike set up you have and have some questions for you please.

You say you've fitted an IMS TANK. Is that 3 US gallons? I read somewhere they have bad fittment issues, so was that the case for you or did it just bolt straight on without having to move or modify anything?

You've also removed your airbox lid. Did you expereince a noticable difference in power and/or throttle response? Can i ask if you tried it first just with the snorkle removed but the lid still in place, and if that made made any difference?

I've just fitted .44 front springs to my bike but am somewhat disappointed with the lack of difference from standard. I only weigh about 72kg (without riding gear) so thought it would suit me fine with the trail/enduro stuff i do. It's still too soft though. Can i ask please what your body weight and spring change number is, what your riding expereince has been with the new springs fitted, and what you may recommend based on your experience?

Lastly, my gear lever bends like it's made from plasticine, and i'm tired of having to bend it back all the time. I notice you have MSR XR600 lever fitted and imagine you changed it for the same reason. I would like to know what your expereince has been with this lever fitted please? Does it bend too easily as well? And if it becomes bent is it still easy enough to bend back again whilst out on the trail?

Thanks heaps!

Greg
 
Old Aug 26, 2012 | 02:41 AM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by 2789greg
G'day,

I'm from the Blue Mountains and have recently become the very proud owner of a KLX 250s 2009 model.

How'd you go with the rim clean method of setting tyre pressures? Any improvement?

I'm also intersted in the bike set up you have and have some questions for you please.

You say you've fitted an IMS TANK. Is that 3 US gallons? I read somewhere they have bad fittment issues, so was that the case for you or did it just bolt straight on without having to move or modify anything?

You've also removed your airbox lid. Did you expereince a noticable difference in power and/or throttle response? Can i ask if you tried it first just with the snorkle removed but the lid still in place, and if that made made any difference?

I've just fitted .44 front springs to my bike but am somewhat disappointed with the lack of difference from standard. I only weigh about 72kg (without riding gear) so thought it would suit me fine with the trail/enduro stuff i do. It's still too soft though. Can i ask please what your body weight and spring change number is, what your riding expereince has been with the new springs fitted, and what you may recommend based on your experience?

Lastly, my gear lever bends like it's made from plasticine, and i'm tired of having to bend it back all the time. I notice you have MSR XR600 lever fitted and imagine you changed it for the same reason. I would like to know what your expereince has been with this lever fitted please? Does it bend too easily as well? And if it becomes bent is it still easy enough to bend back again whilst out on the trail?

Thanks heaps!

Greg
Can't help with the "rim cleaning" method as I run tubeless. However, on that shift lever, I use the XR650L lever from MSR. Yes, they are steel, and they do bend. Be warned that if you find a lever that doesn't bend, you may likely break the shifter shaft itself, or worse. If you're bending your stocker this much, do you have your sag set up correctly? I will say the MSR lever is a bit longer than stock, and that's why most riders use it as the stocker is so short. It may be a tad stiffer than the stock unit, but honestly you want your shifter to be capable of bending without too much drama. The other alternative can be bad.

I run .44 Race Tech springs, and they fit my 190 pound weight just fine. Mine is an '06, however, so that may not be an identical comparison.
 
Old Aug 26, 2012 | 02:50 AM
  #5  
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Rim clean method might be better called the "how low can I go", might not be the best method for a street going bike? Off road psi is a feel thing, thick tube thin tube, do i wanna risk a flat, how far the truck, do I have a spare tube etc etc.
 
Old Aug 26, 2012 | 03:11 AM
  #6  
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With my heavy butt and me crossing all sorts of terrian, there isn't an one best tire PSI setting. So I keep mine set to 22 PSI front, 24 PSI rear. This has done me well for wear, not the best for traction on the soft stuff.
 
Old Aug 28, 2012 | 10:27 PM
  #7  
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You riding dirt or roads? re tire pressure?

If you did not revalve the forks when you did the springs, your not really fixing all the problems.

If you put a stiff gear shifter on it, then it will break not bend. Either the shaft or the lever, if you think that is an improvement, good luck.
 
Old Aug 28, 2012 | 10:56 PM
  #8  
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I recently had a question about tire pressure too. The KLX250S suggest 22 psi on 21/18" wheels where as the KLX250SF suggests 29 front/33 rear psi on 17/17" wheels.

Since I put 70/30-dirt tires on my bike for more street use I bumped it up to 25 psi. What characteristics should you be looking for to know if you're at the optimum tire pressure?
 
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