Question for 300cc kit installers
I can't remember for the wrist pin, but for the cylinder and piston, clean all the heavy factory oils off with contact cleaner and then just give the cylinder a _light_ coat of 10W40 on a rag or whatever oil you will be using. To much will inhibit ring seating. You don't need anything on the piston or rings other than to make sure they are clean.
The manual probably says what to do for the wrist pin, I just can't remember.
Break it in with a few heat cycles of about 20 minutes up and down through the gears with a 20 minute cool off in between. After 3 or 4 of those, dump the oil and call it good.
The manual probably says what to do for the wrist pin, I just can't remember.
Break it in with a few heat cycles of about 20 minutes up and down through the gears with a 20 minute cool off in between. After 3 or 4 of those, dump the oil and call it good.
In my past experience, it's actually hard to over lube any of the moving parts when re-assembling the top end...within reason.White assembly lube is fine for the wrist pin, but so is engine oil. I normally smear enough on the piston and cylinder wall to make them nice and slippery. Scuffing is a greater risk than seating the rings. The oil gets scraped off and blown out the exhaust pretty quickly. Be sure to use assembly lube on the cam surfaces too. That first start is critical and can potentially cause damage until the oil gets flowing.
Bill Dragoo
Norman, Oklahoma
331
Bill Dragoo
Norman, Oklahoma
331
+1
Assy lube can be had at any local auto parts store. When I was in the car biz, I would crank the car over sever times to get initial oil pressure up and havethe oilmoving throught the galleys and parts, just undo the plug wire from the spark plug. After on initial firing Id let it idle and get it good and warm, Id also check over everything before I went out for the first time.
Assy lube can be had at any local auto parts store. When I was in the car biz, I would crank the car over sever times to get initial oil pressure up and havethe oilmoving throught the galleys and parts, just undo the plug wire from the spark plug. After on initial firing Id let it idle and get it good and warm, Id also check over everything before I went out for the first time.
I use sealed power assembly lube, but have probably used motor oil more often, over the years.
Get your hands on some Pennzoil 25W50 racing oil.
Its heavy,of very high quality, and mkaes a great assembly, and cam lube.
Get your hands on some Pennzoil 25W50 racing oil.
Its heavy,of very high quality, and mkaes a great assembly, and cam lube.
I just use oil. Just wet my finger & put it on the pin, then barley put any on the rings/cylinder--definitley not slathered or anything--just the very light fils it would have like when you disassemble. For the top end once I set the cams in I drizzle some oil straight out of the bottle over the cams, etc. Once buttoned up I crank it over for awahile then start it & let it idle.
This might make some people nervous, but after complete assembly, with engine oil, I put contact cleaner in the cylinder, and hit the magic button for a few strokes(with the plug out). Then replaced the plug and go riding.
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