Like you, the front brake feel and leverage to me was a bit weak. Never ended up do it but, back when I was getting mine setup, the KX-250 Master Cylinder was the one most people had success with.

 

I'm running the stock one with stock line and have two finger braking. You might try going to Harbor freight, getting one of their $30 vacuum bleeders and doing a good bleed job on the brakes. I have even cut my lever short (hand guards made it necessary, but I also always use 2 fingers on brakes). I have a braided steel line hanging in the shop, have a 300 mm KLX650 rotor that could be fitted with the appropriate carrier, but haven't done any of that since the brake is strong enough I can anchor it hard with two fingers. That is with the 2009 and up master cylinder.

If you want less lever travel you are going to have to go with a bigger piston master cylinder, which will reduce brake pressure at the caliper, or spend a bunch of money to get one with different mechanical leverage at the hand lever. You could try finding an adjustable lever that can actually move out further or drill a small hole in a stock lever, to fit a small pin with a bit of a round head on it where it will contact the master cylinder piston, to push your lever out a shade further, it will require some work grinding on some other areas to allowing the lever to move out further. But first I'd do a braided line to see if that tightens things up a bit more if there is line flex in the stock brake line.

 

Thanks for the info. The lever isn't soft. Instead there is a LOT of travel before anything happens. From other posts, that seems like the norm...which is a shame. I'm not willing to do custom work on a master that should have been better designed. Barring a miracel, it'll work like this until the next owner adresses the poor engineering.

 

Has anyone fitted an alternate front master cylinder and how did it work? I've been stopping by the local dealer for a couple of years now. They never have a KLX250 or similar to compare mine with. I did see a KX something or other and it had a completely different master and a single disc, so maybe it would work. The lever felt normal...so nothing like mine.

 

The mechanics at your local Kawi shop should be able to confirm if the KX-250 master cylinder is a good match today.

I also looked over the EBC site for better pads and a larger rotor conversion. Even with your 17" wheelset, personally, I would spend the $$$ on a larger rotor conversion from EBC and I would add braided brake lines for improved feel, also from EBC or a similar quality source.

Start with the braided brake lines. That will firm up the feel some take away some of the squishiness of your factory setup. Braided brake lines should run ~$70 with brake fluid if you do it yourself.

The EBC 300mm front rotor was ~$300USD shipped out of England at the time but, be sure to firm up the front suspension (higher weight fork spring) to avoid front end dive and weight transfer. This assumes you have braided brake lines already.

 

Nothing just now that the 2009 KLX250SF (mine) and the 2022 KLX300 have the same master cylinder p/n 43015. That includes lever and internal, a complete assembly. 300 Super Moto is the same also. Caliper and rotor are also the same across all.

Curiously, the KX250X has the same p/n for the master, despite having different internals, the same rotor p/n despite being different, and different caliper but with same p/n. Strange.

No wonder this is so hard! i've never seen this on a Yamaha or Honda I've owned.

 

Discovered on another site that there's a 4 digit added onto that p/n which designates differences.

My beloved KLX CYLINDER-ASSY-MASTER,FR 43015-1697.
2022 KLX300SM is 43015-0771.
2022 KX250X is 43015-0695.

 

I don't know how it happened, but a 2017 CRF250 Rally followed me home on my trailer today. It looks gigantic next to the KLX250, but build quality is so much higher on the Honda. Hoping to spend a few days going through it (test rode it with what turned out to be 11 PSI front and 5 PSI rear...so ti sucked. . My off road buddies are all saying to sell my much loved KLX. Do any of you own both would you share your thoughts on a comparison?

 

I'd say ride the Honda for a while to decide which you really do prefer for your riding, then sell the other.

 

Not trying to rain on your parade but, I found power to be lacking significantly compared to my basically stock 2007 model with free mods and a KLX-300 exhaust system.

The other thing is the really soft stock suspension. In fairness, I put stiffer springs in the fork on mine but, the Honda will need a lot more than that if the suspension is still stock, at least for how I ride - off-road single tracks way beyond novice level trails.

If all you are doing is rural country roads and urban riding, other than fork dive under front braking, you are probably good with just a fork spring upgrade and dropping a tooth on the front sprocket or ~4 on the rear sprocket.

Build quality on the Honda is high but, I personally find the suspension to be severely lacking and the power marginal at best. I really want to get a Honda Rallye but, the suspension and engine power is holding me back. Come on Honda! Step up your game or I'm going Orange with team KTM! Don't worry, I have been trying to buy a KLX-300R and KTM-390ADV for a dual-sport!

Best Regards,
Sid