Loving my KLX250SF w/carbs!
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 230
From: Charlotte, NC
1st Gear Member
Loving my KLX250SF w/carbs!
I'm really enjoying this little 250. I never thought that I would.
Done so far:
-Delkevic stubby 14" Stainless Steel Oval Muffler KIT04CF. Really like it, but I wish that the instructions were better (don't tighten all nuts/bolts to factory specs!) and that it was a little quieter. I can see it really getting to a rider after a few hours.
-3 gallon IMS. Instructions make the can instructions look perfect! Fit is okay. I did not have to redrill any plastics, but the mounting point for the tank to bike/frame aren't "right on" by any stretch. Still, the extra range will be nice. I'm only a few partial tanks into ownership and averaging ~51MPG, not as high as I'd hoped for.
-Installed some cheap ($17) folding round mirrors which work as expected. Putting a finger against the post when I'm going to look at them smooths them out quite a bit.
-Installed Galfer brake line (Galfer Brakes FK003D722-1) to try to remedy being able to pull the lever to the bar, but it helped little if at all.
-Ordered levers (https://www.ebay.com/itm/254700943910) to again try to fix the mushy brake lever, but they look identical to the aftermarket set on there as far as position. Is this a known problem for this bike? There is a LOT of lever travel before any braking happens.
-Installed Mroinge 5V 4.8A Motorcycle USB Charger (SAE to USB Adapter with Voltage Current Display, Quick Disconnect Plug with Dual USB Charger, with ON/OFF Switch) to monitor the voltage and to be able to charge two USB items if I want to. I run OSMAND app when riding.
-Installed Dynojet jet kit #2152 ($53). From stock 118 to 132 jet, needle on third slot down w/2 washers on top (may need to move to 2nd slot), air screw from 1 turn out to 3 turns out, used original spring.
-Minor suspension setting changes as it seems quite adequate as is. With me on it, front is 20% of travel and rear is 27%.
Gross improvement with these mods, including the airbox top removal.
Still hunting for wheels/tires/rotors for some off road riding. (Ping me if you can help!)
Still trying to decide what to do about the bars. My dirt riding friends suggest something flatter, but I can feel the pressure on the thumb and pinkie base with the stock bar and feel like more angled would be better.
Would like to try the Sargent seat, but no luck in the used market yet.
This site is a superb resource. Thank you!
Done so far:
-Delkevic stubby 14" Stainless Steel Oval Muffler KIT04CF. Really like it, but I wish that the instructions were better (don't tighten all nuts/bolts to factory specs!) and that it was a little quieter. I can see it really getting to a rider after a few hours.
-3 gallon IMS. Instructions make the can instructions look perfect! Fit is okay. I did not have to redrill any plastics, but the mounting point for the tank to bike/frame aren't "right on" by any stretch. Still, the extra range will be nice. I'm only a few partial tanks into ownership and averaging ~51MPG, not as high as I'd hoped for.
-Installed some cheap ($17) folding round mirrors which work as expected. Putting a finger against the post when I'm going to look at them smooths them out quite a bit.
-Installed Galfer brake line (Galfer Brakes FK003D722-1) to try to remedy being able to pull the lever to the bar, but it helped little if at all.
-Ordered levers (https://www.ebay.com/itm/254700943910) to again try to fix the mushy brake lever, but they look identical to the aftermarket set on there as far as position. Is this a known problem for this bike? There is a LOT of lever travel before any braking happens.
-Installed Mroinge 5V 4.8A Motorcycle USB Charger (SAE to USB Adapter with Voltage Current Display, Quick Disconnect Plug with Dual USB Charger, with ON/OFF Switch) to monitor the voltage and to be able to charge two USB items if I want to. I run OSMAND app when riding.
-Installed Dynojet jet kit #2152 ($53). From stock 118 to 132 jet, needle on third slot down w/2 washers on top (may need to move to 2nd slot), air screw from 1 turn out to 3 turns out, used original spring.
-Minor suspension setting changes as it seems quite adequate as is. With me on it, front is 20% of travel and rear is 27%.
Gross improvement with these mods, including the airbox top removal.
Still hunting for wheels/tires/rotors for some off road riding. (Ping me if you can help!)
Still trying to decide what to do about the bars. My dirt riding friends suggest something flatter, but I can feel the pressure on the thumb and pinkie base with the stock bar and feel like more angled would be better.
Would like to try the Sargent seat, but no luck in the used market yet.
This site is a superb resource. Thank you!
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,317
From: North Texas
1st Gear Member
You'll need to replace your airbox lid - immediately !
Lidless airbox requires at least a DJ 140 main jet - your DJ132 is creating extremely lean fueling above 6k rpm.. Lower clip positions (3, 4, etc, down from the top) will "mask" the effects of a "too small" main jet in the lower 1/2 RPM range - providing acceptable functioning in that area - but any performance ops will be seeing very lean AFR's..
Lidless airbox requires at least a DJ 140 main jet - your DJ132 is creating extremely lean fueling above 6k rpm.. Lower clip positions (3, 4, etc, down from the top) will "mask" the effects of a "too small" main jet in the lower 1/2 RPM range - providing acceptable functioning in that area - but any performance ops will be seeing very lean AFR's..
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 5,050
From: Abilene, TX
1st Gear Member
Anyone remember those?
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 230
From: Charlotte, NC
1st Gear Member
Funny group...
Quick question. I scored a set of KLX250S wheels with rotor/sprocket. Will I need only the front rotor to make them work (align) on the SF? If so, is there a cheap aftermarket option or just used OEM? Thank you!
Quick question. I scored a set of KLX250S wheels with rotor/sprocket. Will I need only the front rotor to make them work (align) on the SF? If so, is there a cheap aftermarket option or just used OEM? Thank you!
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4,652
From: Delaware, Ohio
1st Gear Member
I don't think there's any cheap source for a 300mm or whatever it is, front rotor. They were only used on the 250SF for a few years in the U.S. if that's where you are. The KLX650C dual sport ran a 300mm rotor, but they don't come cheap. You may find you have to bite the bullet and blow the bucks.
TNC, My buddy had a twin with one carb... All because Honda had to hoard them and stick them on the XRs. Poor BSAs and Triumphs had to be strangled with one!
TNC, My buddy had a twin with one carb... All because Honda had to hoard them and stick them on the XRs. Poor BSAs and Triumphs had to be strangled with one!
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 230
From: Charlotte, NC
1st Gear Member
Thanks, guys. Hunting for a rotor. May just swap the rotor on the rare occasions when I run around the gravel.
Looks like a fender will be necessary too, correct? (Any aftermarket (Acerbis) may do.
Tried it with the airbox lid on, as suggested, and it was almost dangerous. No power. Worse power under any acceleration at all. Took the lid back off and 1/2 blocked it. WAY more power all through the rev range.
Looks like a fender will be necessary too, correct? (Any aftermarket (Acerbis) may do.
Tried it with the airbox lid on, as suggested, and it was almost dangerous. No power. Worse power under any acceleration at all. Took the lid back off and 1/2 blocked it. WAY more power all through the rev range.