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Lid or No Lid - That is the Question!
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 791
From: Winston-Salem, NC, USA
RE: Lid or No Lid - That is the Question!
ORIGINAL: deej
No lid, 132 and 40 jets, and its perfect.
No lid, 132 and 40 jets, and its perfect.
Thanks,
Chris
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,262
From: Just South of the Ocala Nationa Forest
RE: Lid or No Lid - That is the Question!
Chris,
92063-1075 - MAIN JET,2ND,#130
92063-1076 - JET-MAIN,#132
Hope this helps.
My present setup is a #128 main jet, Needle is N1TC with clip in 2nd slot, a #40 pilot jet. The bike is running fine and pulls all the way through.
I'm going to tinker this weekend. I hope to remove the airbox and see if there is a difference. From what I'm reading, there is more power left in the motor simply by getting the air in and out of the motor. We shall see.
Hope this helps.
92063-1075 - MAIN JET,2ND,#130
92063-1076 - JET-MAIN,#132
Hope this helps.
My present setup is a #128 main jet, Needle is N1TC with clip in 2nd slot, a #40 pilot jet. The bike is running fine and pulls all the way through.
I'm going to tinker this weekend. I hope to remove the airbox and see if there is a difference. From what I'm reading, there is more power left in the motor simply by getting the air in and out of the motor. We shall see.
Hope this helps.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 791
From: Winston-Salem, NC, USA
RE: Lid or No Lid - That is the Question!
Marty,
Thanks for the part #s. Now let me hit you up for some advice.
With the carb such a PITB the get into, I obviously want to make as many changes as I can while I have it out (for the 3rd @#$%! time!). My setup right now is 130 main, 35 pilot and needle in the 3rd (middle) slot, and F/A screw at about 2.25 turns out. With that setup I am strong down low and up high, but a little bumpy while cruising at medium speed. I am making the assumption that I am lean in the middle, but I don't really know. For all I know, I might be rich there. I don't really know how to diagnose based on engine feel since I am truly a noob in this area.
Anyway, my plan as it stands right now is to throw in a 40 pilot and move my the clip to #4. With the 40 pilot, I should be more centered on the F/A screw, so I would think that I would put it at about a 2 or so. I have the T-handle Kouba screw, so I can easily adjust the F/A screw after the fact.
My question for you (and others) is, would you also bump up the main to a 132 during this work, or would it be more wise to do these changes first and see their effects before changing the main? I am leaning to the side of separate changes to isolate the effects, but I sure would like to avoid a 4th trip into the carb if I can help it.
Thanks,
Chris
Thanks for the part #s. Now let me hit you up for some advice.
With the carb such a PITB the get into, I obviously want to make as many changes as I can while I have it out (for the 3rd @#$%! time!). My setup right now is 130 main, 35 pilot and needle in the 3rd (middle) slot, and F/A screw at about 2.25 turns out. With that setup I am strong down low and up high, but a little bumpy while cruising at medium speed. I am making the assumption that I am lean in the middle, but I don't really know. For all I know, I might be rich there. I don't really know how to diagnose based on engine feel since I am truly a noob in this area.
Anyway, my plan as it stands right now is to throw in a 40 pilot and move my the clip to #4. With the 40 pilot, I should be more centered on the F/A screw, so I would think that I would put it at about a 2 or so. I have the T-handle Kouba screw, so I can easily adjust the F/A screw after the fact.
My question for you (and others) is, would you also bump up the main to a 132 during this work, or would it be more wise to do these changes first and see their effects before changing the main? I am leaning to the side of separate changes to isolate the effects, but I sure would like to avoid a 4th trip into the carb if I can help it.
Thanks,
Chris
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,262
From: Just South of the Ocala Nationa Forest
RE: Lid or No Lid - That is the Question!
Chris,
First off, here's a great article on The Keihin CVK40 Carb, which is the big brother to the Keihin CVK34 that we have on our KLX. It gives a lot of excellent information about what does which to who and where it's done.
I personally would put your clip into the 2nd down from the top. I'd almost wager that you're just a touch "FAT" or rich in the midrange and it will get worse with the #40 pilot jet in place.
However, if you have the airbox lid off, you might find that it's pretty close to being right.
With the cold temps we are having, along with the low humidity, this is the time to jet! Don't make it rich as when the warmer weather gets here it will be too rich. Get it right on now and you'll never burn a piston during most of the riding season. Dry, cool air is when you can make lots of power!
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 791
From: Winston-Salem, NC, USA
RE: Lid or No Lid - That is the Question!
Marty,
That is a great article! I have not read it completely yet, but I can see that it is going to give me just what I need to really screw things up!
Seriously, though, I have been wanting to find an article like that for a while. I have read a few things recently about carb theory in general, but this will be right to the point of what I want to know.
As for running rich in the mid-range, that sounds strange. I ran with the clip in the #2 slot for about 1800 miles. I only recently bumped it down a notch, and I think it is a little better, but my head may be playing tricks on me. At the same time that I made that change, I swapped my 128 main for a 130. Based on your comments, I am going to hold off on the 132 bump for now and work only with the pilot and maybe needle position some more. I think what I will do is go full bore on my next change and go down a notch to #4 on the needle notch and replace the 135 pilot with the 140. If nothing else that should be a drastic enough change to make things better in my mid or (if your theory is correct), it should really screw up the mid-range and then I will know to go the other way.
I hate to do this by trial and error, but diagnosing the symptoms is so difficult. As I said in an earlier post, the engine sounds great at all RPMs. Even in the mid-range, it feels like the engine is doing it's thing well, but the front end bounces ever so slightly as if there is a tiny hesitation in the motor that I can't even hear, but that affects the drive. There is definitely something there, I am just not sure if (a) I am barking up the right tree or (b) if this indicates rich or lean. Based on my very blue header pipe, I have to assume that I am lean in general, so I guess going with a little more juice can't hurt matters. I don't know, at this point I am just trying stuff.
Thanks for the input. I will keep you posted.
Chris
That is a great article! I have not read it completely yet, but I can see that it is going to give me just what I need to really screw things up!
Seriously, though, I have been wanting to find an article like that for a while. I have read a few things recently about carb theory in general, but this will be right to the point of what I want to know.As for running rich in the mid-range, that sounds strange. I ran with the clip in the #2 slot for about 1800 miles. I only recently bumped it down a notch, and I think it is a little better, but my head may be playing tricks on me. At the same time that I made that change, I swapped my 128 main for a 130. Based on your comments, I am going to hold off on the 132 bump for now and work only with the pilot and maybe needle position some more. I think what I will do is go full bore on my next change and go down a notch to #4 on the needle notch and replace the 135 pilot with the 140. If nothing else that should be a drastic enough change to make things better in my mid or (if your theory is correct), it should really screw up the mid-range and then I will know to go the other way.
I hate to do this by trial and error, but diagnosing the symptoms is so difficult. As I said in an earlier post, the engine sounds great at all RPMs. Even in the mid-range, it feels like the engine is doing it's thing well, but the front end bounces ever so slightly as if there is a tiny hesitation in the motor that I can't even hear, but that affects the drive. There is definitely something there, I am just not sure if (a) I am barking up the right tree or (b) if this indicates rich or lean. Based on my very blue header pipe, I have to assume that I am lean in general, so I guess going with a little more juice can't hurt matters. I don't know, at this point I am just trying stuff.
Thanks for the input. I will keep you posted.
Chris
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,106
From: Misawa Japan
1st Gear Member
RE: Lid or No Lid - That is the Question!
Wow, It's amazing how different everyones ears/tolerance level is for the airbox noise. I have no issues with it. To be fair, I haven't tried it at WOT going up hill or anything of the sort because my jetting isn't right to run it sustained like that.
ORIGINAL: Bad Bear
Just to loud with lid off I ran it with no Snorkel and could not beleave the difference in the sound level[
]
Just to loud with lid off I ran it with no Snorkel and could not beleave the difference in the sound level[
]
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,106
From: Misawa Japan
1st Gear Member
RE: Lid or No Lid - That is the Question!
Just a suggestion, but since the effect of main, needle and pilot jets on different ranges of throttle openings overlap each other, I would make certain that the main is dialed in first. You may just be able to solve upper mid range problems by bumping the main to a 132 as long as you are running with the lid off. That guide should tell you to always make sure your main is dialed-in first.
ORIGINAL: cwgoff
Marty,
That is a great article! I have not read it completely yet, but I can see that it is going to give me just what I need to really screw things up! Seriously, though, I have been wanting to find an article like that for a while. I have read a few things recently about carb theory in general, but this will be right to the point of what I want to know.
As for running rich in the mid-range, that sounds strange. I ran with the clip in the #2 slot for about 1800 miles. I only recently bumped it down a notch, and I think it is a little better, but my head may be playing tricks on me. At the same time that I made that change, I swapped my 128 main for a 130. Based on your comments, I am going to hold off on the 132 bump for now and work only with the pilot and maybe needle position some more. I think what I will do is go full bore on my next change and go down a notch to #4 on the needle notch and replace the 135 pilot with the 140. If nothing else that should be a drastic enough change to make things better in my mid or (if your theory is correct), it should really screw up the mid-range and then I will know to go the other way.
I hate to do this by trial and error, but diagnosing the symptoms is so difficult. As I said in an earlier post, the engine sounds great at all RPMs. Even in the mid-range, it feels like the engine is doing it's thing well, but the front end bounces ever so slightly as if there is a tiny hesitation in the motor that I can't even hear, but that affects the drive. There is definitely something there, I am just not sure if (a) I am barking up the right tree or (b) if this indicates rich or lean. Based on my very blue header pipe, I have to assume that I am lean in general, so I guess going with a little more juice can't hurt matters. I don't know, at this point I am just trying stuff.
Thanks for the input. I will keep you posted.
Chris
Marty,
That is a great article! I have not read it completely yet, but I can see that it is going to give me just what I need to really screw things up!
Seriously, though, I have been wanting to find an article like that for a while. I have read a few things recently about carb theory in general, but this will be right to the point of what I want to know.As for running rich in the mid-range, that sounds strange. I ran with the clip in the #2 slot for about 1800 miles. I only recently bumped it down a notch, and I think it is a little better, but my head may be playing tricks on me. At the same time that I made that change, I swapped my 128 main for a 130. Based on your comments, I am going to hold off on the 132 bump for now and work only with the pilot and maybe needle position some more. I think what I will do is go full bore on my next change and go down a notch to #4 on the needle notch and replace the 135 pilot with the 140. If nothing else that should be a drastic enough change to make things better in my mid or (if your theory is correct), it should really screw up the mid-range and then I will know to go the other way.
I hate to do this by trial and error, but diagnosing the symptoms is so difficult. As I said in an earlier post, the engine sounds great at all RPMs. Even in the mid-range, it feels like the engine is doing it's thing well, but the front end bounces ever so slightly as if there is a tiny hesitation in the motor that I can't even hear, but that affects the drive. There is definitely something there, I am just not sure if (a) I am barking up the right tree or (b) if this indicates rich or lean. Based on my very blue header pipe, I have to assume that I am lean in general, so I guess going with a little more juice can't hurt matters. I don't know, at this point I am just trying stuff.
Thanks for the input. I will keep you posted.
Chris
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 563
From:
RE: Lid or No Lid - That is the Question!
ORIGINAL: Marty
Chris,
92063-1075 - MAIN JET,2ND,#130
92063-1076 - JET-MAIN,#132
Chris,
92063-1075 - MAIN JET,2ND,#130
92063-1076 - JET-MAIN,#132
thanks,
Dave
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