I'll add that what I'm doing is trying to find the exact point where, say, 30° shows to be much better than, say, 27° and so on and so on.. I think I can reliably measure in 200rpm increments. So, once I have the test data that I can trust, I will break each vid into 200rpm measurements and hopefully create an optimized curve to dyno.. As I zero in on these values, I'll have to start testing in .5° increments - perhaps eventually even less(.2°)..

Every time I can find a faster setting in a given 200rpm (over stock), it adds to the other faster settings, and I end up with a much faster bike..That makes much more power.. ? Right?

 

Well, Kudos for the effort at least. If the power increase was a bit more pronounced it would make it so much easier on you. Other than having your own dyno this is the only way I can imagine doing it. Hope you hit on something.

 

Do you feel there are no gains to be had beyond 30° at any rpm?

 

Actually Hoot, I posted the 35 degree "bump" - Look back a page or two.. So there will be significant work in the upper range, perhaps 8-10.5k, to optimize the bigger advance needed up there..

 

Yes i remember the big ramp-up at low rpm. I was just wondering if that was worth any gains and if it's still part of your plan. And i also agree with testing more advance on the very top-end. Good work man!!

 

Hoot, I will be testing and, hopefully, perfecting , from 2K to 10.5K. The ramping of advance on each end of the scale seems, at this point, to be less scientific and more trial and error. I gained enough knowledge to help me with the midrange so I'm concentrating there for now. How fast to ramp up in the upper range is going to be trial and error, as is how fast to ramp up and then down in the lower range..

 

Re-tested all the curves. I waited until just before nightfall when the wind was calm..
Results are great with a few exceptions. Notice the big variance on the 26°. 27°, and 28° runs. These were the last runs of the night. I will spend quit some time contemplating what could have caused this. Off hand, perhaps she's getting low on fuel and gulping a little more water on these runs? I can take care of that easily enough.. Opinions welcome..

WOT 4k-10.2k
5k-8K measurements
-----------------------
Adv_Run1_Run2
23° 10.80 10.77
24° 10.74 10.71
25° 10.71 10.71
26° 10.74 10.62
27° 10.53 10.83
28° 10.59 10.80
29° 10.74 10.71
30° 10.68 10.62

I broke down all 16 runs into 1k rpm increments and measured. This has revealed the values that seem to give the best performance 5-6k, 6-7k, 7-8k, and 8k-9k - I already know a (so far) best value for 9k (35°)..

I know there is much more testing to be done, just in this 5-8k area, to further tease out the best values. But I'm wanting to see the results of the values of the "breakdown" all put into one curve.. So I created it and will run it ASAP against the stock 25°..

Here are the values from the breakdown:
5-6k 30°
6-7K 27°
7-8K 28°
8-9K 30°

Here is the curve, clik on it for full size:

 

I should be able to test the "Breakdown Curve" later today..

I did test power levels and ramping from a 2K snap-to-WOT. This was meant to verify/measure the effects of the "large front end" on the above curve, over the standard 25 curve. Without boring anyone, it's a turf covered hill climb with a long level entry area. I enter the upturn threshold with the bike steady @ 2k RPM, in first gear. As the rear wheel passes over the threshold, I snap and hold WOT. The instant of wheelspin is shown in the turf and is quite visible and measureable. I did not have to measure though, it was too obvious. With 25 degrees the bike starts wheelspin at the 3/4 mark up the hill, with the "breakdown curve" wheelspin starts just below the 1/2 mark.. It is a very significant increase in both power levels and power ramp-up.

I left the hill in pretty sad shape with strips of missing turf for each "climb test run" I performed.. Better find a more legal hillclimb test area than this - it was a easement along side a boulevard..lol

 

I like the way this curve is looking. I think you can do a lot more testing but probably won't change this curve very much. Maybe 1 degree here or there. I have a feeling this will be the basic shape of your final curve. I'm already planning my ignition swap!!

 

Yes, Hoot, I agree that this overall "shape" is probably going to be the best.. But I am not "married" to it or any other conceptual "ignition curve form" . Everything is going to have to test out and prove itself..

There is much more tweaking to be done - values need to be determined down to the 1/10th of a degree. The math shows that optimized timing requires such precision. As I get closer to a best value for a given RPM, the power levels keep going up.

The "ramps" on the "big front end" of the curve will likely be more trial and error. However I will certainly be able to measure this RPM area as well..

You must get the programming cable, and you really should get the handlebar switch so that you can have two maps at your fingertips. I think having a "easy going" map and a "***** out" map, with the handlebar switch, is best..