KLX250s Battery suggestions?

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  #11  
Old 10-20-2011, 02:33 AM
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I put a shorai in my bike, It is 1/4 the weight of the stock battery, and turns the motor over very quickly. They hold their charge for a very long time. I paid 140 for it. I lost 4 pounds off the bike which is huge. It is a bit more than an inch shorter and a bit thinner than the stocker as well.
 
  #12  
Old 10-20-2011, 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by GaryC
I think you reversed the battery link posts. i highly doubt you can start your bike on 2300mah.

Ampere-hour is not a rating of electrical power.
 
  #13  
Old 10-20-2011, 02:37 AM
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Originally Posted by zomby woof
I use this exact battery in my KLX. It works flawlessly

4S1P 13.2V2300mah A123 original Battery for RC hobby | eBay

Same as the expensive ones. If you ask, he'll put larger cables on, but the original cables have worked fine for me.

I use this one in my car

A123 battery 4s3p 13.2V6.9AH motorcycle start battery | eBay
How did you come up with that idea? I mean most car batteries say they are 200+ cca right? I would not have thought either of the batts you linked would do either job well. I am blown away. The car batt is a little more expensive than the average battery, how long do they last?
 
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Old 10-20-2011, 03:00 AM
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Originally Posted by zomby woof
But you think it will start my car?

The 2300 turns the bike over faster and longer than the stock battery. These batteries are amazing. Same as the big dollar ones, only cheaper. The big one took 30 lbs out of the front of my car, which has 12-1 compression, so it's not easy on batteries.

For reference, the 2300 is just slightly bigger then 4 C cells.
ZW: interesting. How long have you had these in the klx and car?
 
  #15  
Old 10-20-2011, 03:08 AM
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Just this year.
I did a lot of research before I bought them.
This is fairly new technology, but it's legit.
I commute with that car, so I had to be sure.
 
  #16  
Old 10-23-2011, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by zomby woof
But you think it will start my car?

.
I was thinking you had an R/C car, not using it on a full size auto.
Good to know about the battery. Hard to believe but i guess if you have them that is proof.
 

Last edited by GaryC; 10-23-2011 at 03:58 PM.
  #17  
Old 10-23-2011, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by wildcard
Ampere-hour is not a rating of electrical power.
It most certainly is.
Current (AMPs) is the power, not the voltage.
try putting a five amp fuse in your starter circuit and see it blow instantly when you try to start your car. The big fat wire fron your battery is rated to handle the current(amp) not the voltage.
 
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Old 10-23-2011, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by GaryC
It most certainly is.
Current (AMPs) is the power, not the voltage.
try putting a five amp fuse in your starter circuit and see it blow instantly when you try to start your car. The big fat wire fron your battery is rated to handle the current(amp) not the voltage.
I think we get your drift, but just to be clear, amps is not power. Amps x Volts = Power (a typical unit is watts).
HowStuffWorks "What are amps, watts, volts and ohms?"
 
  #19  
Old 10-23-2011, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by GaryC
It most certainly is.
Current (AMPs) is the power, not the voltage.
try putting a five amp fuse in your starter circuit and see it blow instantly when you try to start your car. The big fat wire fron your battery is rated to handle the current(amp) not the voltage.

I invite you to read up on what Ampere-hour rating is.
 
  #20  
Old 10-24-2011, 12:13 AM
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I didn't mean to start a pissing contest here. the limiting factor is the voltage. the unlimited factor is the current. i thought that it was understood that you can not increase the bikes operating system to more than 12 volts. Excuse me please.

4S1P LiFe Battery Pack Type 1, 13.2V, 2300mAh
Nominal voltage: 13.2V
Capacity: 2300mAh
Recommended standard charging current: 3A
Recommended fast charging current: 10A
Maximum continuous discharge current: 70A
Maximum continuous discharge rate: 30C
Pulse Discharge at 10 sec: 120A
Dimensions (LxHxW): 7x5.5x5.5 cm / 2.75x2.2x2.2 inch
Net weight: 320 g / 11.35 oz
Life cycles: 1000+

So the 2300 MAH battery will sustain 2.3 mp draw for one hour until dead.
If my bike draws 23 amps to start it, that means i have 6 minutes of cranking time before the battery is dead??
I am not sure i would trust that in the woods if i needed it after a drop in the local watering hole. Correct me if i am wrong,,,, AGAIN.
I guess i could put an amprobe on the starter and see what it draws with the kill switch in the off position. Actually, try it with the 2400mah pack and see how long it will crank until it goes dead, let me know if it is the same as the stock battery.

What is the CCA rating?
The cold cranking ampere (CCA) rating refers to the number of amperes a battery can support for 30 seconds at a temperature of 0°F until the battery voltage drops to 1.20 volts per cell, or 7.20 volts for a 12V battery. Thus, a 12V battery that carries a rating of 600 CCA tells us that the battery will provide 600 amperes for 30 seconds at 0°F before the voltage falls to 7.20V.


What is a MilliAmp Hour (MAH)?
MilliAmp Hour means how much current a battery will discharge over a period of one hour. Higher numbers here reflect a long battery runtime and or higher storage capacity. Higher MAH ratings do not necessarily reflect on speed but more on runtime. For example a 2000 mAh pack will sustain a 2000 milli amp (2 amp) draw for one hour before dropping to a voltage level that is considered discharged. A 1700 will sustain a 1700 mAh (1.7 amp) draw for one hour. 1000 mAH is equal to a 1 Amp Hour (AH) rating.


LET ME MAKE PERFECTLY CLEAR,,, I AM NOT ARGUING A POINT HERE, I AM TRYING TO UNDERSTAND IT. So before anyone gets pissy, if you explain it rather than tell me to look it up,, i would appreciate it.
 

Last edited by GaryC; 10-24-2011 at 12:36 AM.


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