Main is in effect when near and at full throttle. If it leans out at full throttle in mid and upper rpm (remember peak hp is at around 8600 rpm) then get the richer jet. If it ran fine (I forget what you said about that) then it's likely fine. Mine ran fine wide open, took out the hesitation, so I stayed with the leaner jet, but I had the fuel adder too.

You could pick up one size richer to have it. The needle is the mid range steady throttle issue.

 

Perfect thanks, I'll get the 130 jet to go along with the other parts because the cost of shipping is more than the jet.

 

Find the dyno jet main in this application, fuels almost the same as the keihin jet used for this application. No conversion chart, id hole measuring needed. My experience with the 300 needle is to use it at clip 1 and 2. It's (too) aggressive taper can make the bike go rich set any lower. My best power pull was with a 132 main using a clean K&N filter. A swap to foam filter 128 looked better. This was using a kdx snorkle cut short, lid off too loud. YMMV

 

Thanks

 

Two things...

First, add me to the list of believers in the MCM. what an awesome improvement! I only got in a short shake down run but when it lifted the front wheel in second gear I knew good things were going on!

Second, addressing RuggyBuggy's posts regarding a tight cam chain with the tensoiner removed, and needing to "walk" the cams in. In looking at the Factory Service Manual, the large bolt below the cam tensioner holds a spring against the chain guide to keep tension on it. So even with the racheting chain tensioner removed, there is a (big) spring keeping tension on the chain guide. It is just a large spring with no provision to prevent the chain guide from pushing back against the spring tension, that is what the racheting tensioner or Kreiger unit does.

Hope that helps, God Bless,

TC

 

Tim, what is your elevation? You need to be running DJ144/1N or a variation corrected for your altitude..

You see, with MCM and your full FMF exhaust - and despite not running lidless - your bike will be running very lean.. I'm sure it runs fine but you're not seeing the power levels you have worked hard for and paid for..

 

Klxster, thanks for the heads up! I did not get to put any time on the bike today due to other "responsibilities" (Hate those!) but will be very attentive to mixture when I put some seat time on it. I believe the DJ kit (for the 250, not the 300) provided me only one larger jet than the 128 I am running. The kit is out in the shop (and I am not) but I think they provided a 132? Who was your source of larger DJ jets?
The 1N is a Kawi needle?

Thanks for the advice and being attentive to my combo!

TC

 

Ah, and I am at sea-level. The Cascade range occasionally gets me above 6,000ft.

TC

 

If you want to run well all the way to 6K then you'll have to run really lean at sea level..

You can call DJ and order a 144 main jet, 2 needle washers, and a needle clip... Shipping will cost more than the parts..

Pull your lid, put in 144/1N you'll be correct for sea level up to close to 2K with a healthy dose of extra power over your current setup.. If you ever decide to try this, Let me know before you start the work..

 

You can also order DJ parts through your local powersports shops and not have to pay shipping.