Thank you very much, my confidence has come back

I really hope that at the weekend I will have everything to finish the bike. It gets a new sparkplug, air filter, new shims and a 13 teeth front sprocket.

Also have to buy a torque wrench and loctite (blue or red?).

 

Mateja, like I said... wah, wah. Guy has the engineering thought process of his avitar.

klxter At least I am part of the human gene pool. Bugger off .

 

It's "avatar"... and "Klxster"... In case you're not done (doing exactly what you accuse me of Snowflake)...

 

FWIW, I used the coat hanger trick to hold the KACR in the "fully deployed" position for several years and several thousand trouble-free miles, to include riding a couple BDRs. I believe it is a pretty low risk mod if done properly. If the weights are wide open, there should be no stress or changing stress upon the wire.

The only reason I am no longer utilizing that mod is that I un-did the MCM and pressed out (removed) the KACR completely when I installed the BB331 kit.

My $0.02

 

There's only one thing I don't understand. Does it have any advantage of doing the "coat hanger" mod? I thought simply removing the spring solves the whole problem with the KACR, then why bother with wires or coat hangers?

Oh, and timc63:
I accidentally clicked on your profile and found the picture about pressing the KACR out with a bearing remover. It's a pretty good idea, I feel little stupid because I also have one if these remover sets, and this idea didn't come to my mind. My only concern is that I don't know whether it is "safe" to use that little sleeve on the camshaft to use the remover. Do you recommend using this method?

UPDATE:
I've finished the bike. Haven't ridden yet, but it starts and runs.
Also managed to remove the KACR with the bearing remover.

 

Mateja,
Sorry for the delayed response, I see that you have successfully pressed the KACR out and answered your own question! So obviously, yes I think it's safe. I used a hydraulic press so there was no impact and it came out smoothly and gently.

So, my turn for a question.... Why haven't you ridden it yet!!!!😁😁😁

 

I finished the bike at around 7 o’clock PM and there was complete dark and 7 Celsius (44 Fahrenheit). And also the battery was completely drained.
Tomorrow I am definitely gonna ride it.

The only thing I managed today is get the bike started, fortunaly it starts really easily much better than before. Do KLXs run hotter with MCM?
I am not sure, but I think it warmed up much faster than before.

UPDATE:
Today I had my first ride. It ran beautifully and smoothly, so I think I did a good job with the timing.
Frankly, I didn't notice any major increase in power, probably it got a little more torque. Unfortunately I didn't measure the acceleration before the mod, but it feels to be a little quicker.

In an other topic I mentioned the that bike had a terrible "rattling" noise between 4000-6000, which has almost completely disappeared. Probably because I fixed the out-of-spec exhaust valve clearances.

 

You have a huge increase in trq from off idle to ~6000 rpm - the increases decrease as you near 6k rpm.. Dynobutts are practically worthless - but over the years, most all feel the MCM power increase immediately - the Dyno testing we have proves the MCM increases...

Easier/instant starting, quicker warmup, mopowah.... no heat increase..

 

Klxster:
In your video I saw your bike is powerful enough to get a front wheel up with ease without using the clutch. My KLX is nowhere near to that. Obviously your bike is heavily modified compared to mine which has only the MCM mod and stock gearing. When I pull the gas it accelerates quickly but doesn't lift the wheel at all. Should it lift it, or with the stock gearing is it impossible? Also in second gear it's really difficult to make it lift the wheel even with clutch. (I learned to wheelie on a 50cc so I am used to the lack of power but still)

I've already bought a 13 teeth sprocket but I wasn't able to install it due to the lack of tools. I hope that will make a difference.

 

What you see in the video is DG slipon+lid less airbox+lid less CVK setup +MCM, nothing else/more. That is the trq monster setup..

To the above, add a full exhaust (FMF, Barker, etc) and lid less CVK setup "#2" for best all round power..