Richard thankx for posting that link
I just read it great read
A lot of similarity but Different ways
of mounting it up
I wounder how the dude made out
next to do some AFR test

 

KCCT = Krieger Cam Chain Tensioner, the manual tensioner made by KLX678. He answered that.

 

Ah the K threw me off
actually the fit is tight but with the kcct adjuster
it should fit better
I will have to pick one of those up

 

The fcr35 is ruffed in and everything hooks up and looks good
I had to notch out the frame
I had to go to a single throttle cable
made a new throttle cable mount
I had to modify the starter
made a new idle speed screw
made a air fuel mixture screw so it could be adjusted while on the bike
Now I will start setting up the jetting and setting air fuel ratios
ClickPartsfor pictures

 

Are you planning to weld some pieces in that notch to restore the integrity of that crossmember?

 

well ol'klx-er i thought about may be tacking in a solid bar stock
but then I thought about just cuttin' out the whole thing and cut down on some weight:

 

What'd you do to the starter? I think the guy in the other thread I posted was jugging intakes and air box boot adapters (carb bells) to clear the starter with his..

 

It looked like that that dude was spacing his carb out from the head to get behind the starter where as i wanted to get mine as close to the head as i could to make the most of my bottom end ,the closer you get to the head the more bottom end grunt you get the farther you get from the head the more top end grunt you get.
by going back you also raise the height of the carburetor cause they are down draft carbs
and he had a issue of the top of the carb hitting the bottom of the tank
thats why I had to notch the frame so I could go more forward toward the head I also had to cut off about 8mm off the front of the carb to allow it to go in further. with the stack that the guy i bought it from sent with it, It went on the air box side perfect looks like a factory install
I had to take some off the starter so my idle fuel mixture screw would turn with out hitting the starter
Like i said it is tight

 

First runs
Now that all the gizmo's are hooked up to my patient
I can start looking at some numbers
at about 1500rpm idle i was out about 2.5 turns on the idle fuel screw
afr was at hi 10 mid 11 way to rich for me
turned the screw in to about 1.5 out and she came up to around 12.1
i then adjusted the slow air jet let some more air in and it settled in at around 12.9 that is where l like for the afr to be at idle
when i open the throttle a little she starts to go pretty lean
tomorrow i will have to address that issue but sounds great
very responsive quick she be poppin
Bill.

 

I think you have it backwards old chap.


I looked around just to double check..and there's plenty of talk online about longer intake = more low end :

The longer inlet tract delivers better lower end (border) spread of power.
Hence, the long inlet tract on the Commando is a compromise between delivering even lower bottom end power and max revs.

and

The old rule of thumb for single plenum manifolds as on the Bonneville:

Longer = more low end torque
Shorter = torque moved up the power band higher.

etc




Think 413 Chrysler cross ram