thanks for the pic and info. yes i did look at them, and the plot thickens- the 125 jet has the K but the 130 and 135 do not. they all appear to be the same type of jet though... i messaged the seller asking to confirm.





do you think i'm ok to run the lid with kdx snorkel with the 135 jet i have in there now along with the full exhaust?

 

Well, if you must reassemble and run right now, I would put in the "unknown" 135 and, just to be safe, I would use the lid and KDX snorkel. Shim the stock needle if you want.. Certainly stay away from high RPM's if you are near sea level..

You do not have a proper needle for any "high performance" use, except what I mentioned before. Combined with an unknown main jet, this is a bad situation.

DJ jets for our bikes do not normally come in odd denominations. DJ jets cannot be compared to others via "hole measuring". If that 135 is a Keihin or similar, it only x-overs to a DJ126 - far too lean..

 

got it- thanks so much for your patience and help. I do not need to rush to assemble, just anxious- but don't want to put it into a lean situation (already did that with stock jets/full exhuast lidless for a brief moment). i don't even have my fuel hose yet so i can't get it running evening if i wanted to. i think at this point i'm going to order the dynojet kit to have on hand or at the very least the adjustable needle/larger jets.

i have a much better understanding now but i'm still a little confused about what you mean when i don't have a needle for high performance use (except what you mentioned before). I was originally under the impression that with the proper jetting and my current intake/exhaust that the shimmed stocker would suffice?

i think at this point i'm going to order the dynojet kit to have on hand.

as of now i have the 135 unknown main jet, 40 pilot jet, 2 shims on the stock needle and the screw backed out 3 turns. lid still on with kdx snorkel and the PB/TBR pipes.

thanks again for your patience!

 

The needle taper on the stock needle is atrocious. When you get a DJ kit and compare the stock needle to the new one you will see what klxster is saying.

 

Waiting is good.. Using the KDX snorkel, just install the DJ2152 kit as per the instructions for stage II. Install the #40 pilot, set to about 2 out (near sea level). Then you can dial it in, with a 1300 rpm idle, to midway between idle drops. Not easy or fun but you only have to do it once..

 

Seems the most economical way to go is to keep doing the Keihin stuff, pick up the N1-TC needle and a couple richer main jets, the pilot is pretty much by the book for Keihin.

 

getting 1 jet, needle, clip & spacer comes in @ $52 + shipping @ bikebandit... got scared looking for the right jet @ jetsrus

 

Well I think I might just pick up the k158 jet and run lidless to start with the shimmed stock needle and 40 pilot. That will get me running and out of the lean zone.

 

Sounds good.. That N1TC needle has always been waay to expensive.. I assume you are going to be riding below 2000 FT ?

 

I do not know about your needle shims that came in that Sigma kit, but I can tell you that you need to shim the stock NNLA needle with a "spacer" that is between .020" and .040" in thickness, for this lidless recipe - do no go thicker than .040" - obviously place this shim pack below the needles' retainer. This means stick the pointy end of the needle into the shim pack and slide the pack up against the retainer..

It ain't much shimmin needed here.. Do not go overboard..

For readers that are also running MCM (with P/Mbomb + slipon + lidless), you run a shim pack of .080" - .120" ( 4 to 6 DJ needle washers - Closer to 6 if at sea level, closer to 4 as alts approach 2k ASL..)

And the details, for you CVK tuning experts - NNLA shimmed @ .120" is still a longer needle than N1TC @ 1N.... 2.175"(N1TC) to 2.19"(NNLA)