Wow, that's funny - Sigma huh.. What a scam..

 

Scam....?

But look at all the great reviews!!

heh heh

 

 

do you think its even worth going with the shimmed stock needle and jets from the sigma kit? Or better off buying the new needle and some jets to peice together myself or just call it a total loss and go with dyna kit?

 

First I'd look at the jets to figure out what they are. Odds are they are either Kiehin or Dyno Jets bought and packaged. Kiehin has a stylized K on them by the jet number. Not sure what Dyno Jet has on theirs.

If you find they're Kiehin, order a needle from a Kawasaki dealer and do what has been noted for years by a lot of 250 riders. Click on the link for KLX250 Cheap Mods in my signature. It has the correct numbers and will work to get you going. Shimming the needle just doesn't cut it. Plus you may find some of the instructions in that kit will let you know if it has proven to work when compared to what was done in the past.

Those hop ups were pre-Dyno Jet kit, established by riders when the KLX came out in 2006, one familiar name to some is D. Pippin, who has a lot of good KLX information on his site. The site is linked in the document.

Both will work. If you do the Kiehin parts follow the instructions in the hop ups document. I will tell you they work on any of the bikes from 06 up, my brother did his 06 and I my 09. With a bit of looking you may find all you need is the needle and pieces. If you dump it and go Dyno Jet, get with KLXter.

 

Oddly enough, with your PBomb + TBR slipon, and the lid off the airbox, you can fuel your bike well with a shimmed stock needle and a DJ144 or K158 main jet (near seal level).

NOT having the MCM makes such a CVK setup even more applicable as MCM needs more fueling (for max power) below 6.5K than the "thick" stock needle can supply..

Do the work correctly and you will get a linear WOT power curve (pull) until 5.5-6.5K rpm, with good "low end" throttle response.

Power levels above 6.5K rpm will be greatly enhanced all the way to redline cutoff (10.5K) - as in "hang on tight, I'm not a playbike anymore"..

Please note that the stock header + TBR has the potential to make more power below 6.5k rpm than Pbomb+TBR, but with significantly less power above.


If running lidless is not for you, and snorkel or lid sans snorkel is, your Sigma kit doesn't have what you need. You'll need a DJ2206 or DJ2152 kit.. Probably best to get the DJ2152 kit in order to have more options with midrange fueling (DJ spring vs Stock spring).. And you will be installing the 2152 kit as per instructions..

In all cases, the sigma kit probably has a larger pilot jet (a 38 or 40 ?) and, no doubt, should be used..

Oh, if you've uncovered your fuel screw at this point, never ever get a drill bit anywhere near your KLX carb again regardless of the reason or reasoning. If you start chucking up a bit for drilling something on your CVK, practice on your forehead first..lol

 

BTW, do not pull off the airbox lid until you have installed a DJ144 or K158 main jet.. Stay on the proper course with these mods and you'll be fine - go off half-cocked and you'll suffer..

 

Well tonight I patched the hole with some JB steel stik and swapped out the pilot jet for the 40 that came with the kit. The main jet is listed as 135 (kit also came with 125 and 130) now I'm just waiting for my replacement fuel hose.

Can't find a reference for comparing these main jet sizes to kawi/DJ

 

Did you look at the jet for markings? That is the first thing I'd do. From there the only way to know is to accurately measure the orifice then look up what the others have.

I am still betting those are common jets. Here is a link to Jets-R-Us conversion chart and an image.



Look and see. Keiin mains commonly used for the KLX250 would be in the 125-140 range. I run a 125, brother runs a 138.

 

It looks like if you use the Teikei, you would have to seriously raise the needle. This is assuming the needle passes through the jet, not really sure about that!