Pika,
This is very interesting. Sounds like a great place to start. Which DJ kit and settings do you recommend for this set up. I'll eventually go with lidless and the FMF slip-on and follow KLXster's advice.

BTW, I pulled my lid off today for the first time (had the bike for a week and it finally stopped raining) and found my snorkle like this...was this modified, or are the sloppy hole punch-outs stock?

 

While your waiting for Pika to respond, I'll tell you that your snorkel has been butchered by a previous owner - so you may want to consider and start looking for what all else that misguided soul did to your bike.. If he was able to remove the carb, it requires more skills than hole punching a snorkel, he may have made alterations in it too..

 

007KLX250S,

From what I know now I would start with a DJ stage 2 kit. Lid on with snorkel removed and stock exhaust. For an 07 I am not sure which kit you should buy, probably the 09-14 kit 2152 will work, but ask on the forum for advice from someone who has used this kit on a 07. DJ does not list a kit for a 07 KLX250. See: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...-klx250-43779/

If you are near sea level start with what DJ recommends: DJ124 main and needle with clip in third groove. This will give you a good reference point for future performance mods. I think that the DJ needle gives you more tuning options than the Keihin N1TC needle. I started with Keihin parts because that is what my bike came with and my Kawaski dealer stocks a lot of Keihin main jets. Then if you buy a slip-on just change the m.j. to the DJ128. If you are going lid-less Klxster is who you should ask for advice.

 

You can use either the 2152 kit or the 2206 kit. We all can, regardless of model year.

 

Klxster,

Yes, I agree without the MCM I should tune for max torque above 7K. But, I like the feel of the bike when the torque comes on earlier. I want it both ways! I am thinking I will try the MCM in the future.I am going to try my K158 setup with the stock slide hole and various needles too see what I get.

Yes, when I compared the DJ228 and the stock needles it looked like the stock needle might work well for lid-less.

I am proving that the Jets-R-us jet conversion table is pretty darn close. I chose the K158 from your DJ144 recommendation. I have proven to myself that a number of the other sizes are correct also.

 

RageHard.. chose a K152 off that chart, to correlate to a DJ140, in his setup..

Contrary to popular belief, the dyno proves very little change in AFR with a 1 size change in the main jet. It takes a jump of 2 or more sizes to make a difference.

The stock needle only for lidless with Pbomb+Q4+K158 - any other use of it could go really lean in low to mid range..

Any chance you can dyno your bike once you're satified with your results?

 

OH CRAP Pika, I forgot that my dyno-butt testing of the stock needle was with it shimmed, using the DJ washers under its' retainer - I can't remember how many washers I used - I do remember doing the math to get the stocker about the same overall length as, I think, the DNJ0228.. I think I remember using more than a few DJ washers under that thing..

So FYI, you might look again at the measurement threads and decide for yourself -

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...urments-43117/

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...-teaser-43153/

 

Yeah, it was a guess...

I cut to the chase on the whole thing... TM36-68 laying on the tool box waiting to be installed this spring. No more fly by vacuum. Hopefully get the aftermarket 300 head pipe and Pro Circuit reverse cone megaphone slip on fitted too.

 

What benefits are people gettting from drilling the slide bleed hole with a 7/64 inch drill? I've searched and I can't get a clear answer on the benefit.

Thanks for excusing my ignorance and for your generous relaying of knowledge.

 

A good rule-of-thumb - If you gotta drill sumpin, drill another hole in your head, leave your poor KLX alone.

There are two exceptions:
1. If/when you commit to the DJ2206 kit, you will be drilling the slide lift hole as per the instructions.

2. You can drill out the crankcase vent on the airbox to make a larger opening for the crankcase vent hose.

Anything else you read or hear about drilling is total crap - especially the moronic drilling out of the crankcase vent on the engine case !

A clear answer is that a larger slide lift hole will quicken the action of the slide to throttle inputs. It is one "part" to a long list of interrelated items that must operate together well in order to fuel your bike below about 6K @ WOT and during most of your day-to-day riding..

Typically, you drill this lift hole because you read some junk online or took advice from some idiot like me ! lol, JK..

Edit 3/2018: Never drill your slide lift hole for any reason! Best performance has been determined to be with a stock lift port.