Lidless is the whole key - if offers the breathing a performance exhaust system or slipon needs to get-er-done... But running lidless requires custom fueling setups.

 

Oh, one other thing. My klx is a 2006.. that DJ kit 2152 is for 09-15. Will it work or is the carb different? Mine's a Keihin CVK 34, they list the 09s as a CVK34 but not sure if it's all the same..

 

Call DynoJet for that - 800-992-4993

 

But they are all CVK34's..

 

Custom fueling setups as in jetting and changing the needle in the carb? Or like a fuel filter? Sorry I'm new to bikes

 

"Custom fueling setups as in jetting and changing the needle in the carb?"

Yes, and I did the dyno tuning to find what works best with lidless + slipon - see the link below, in my sig line, the one with DGR..

I am running the MCM but the setup works with stock cam timing as well - Compared to my bike, you will not have as much TRQ(therefore HP) below about 6.5k - but you MAY have more TRQ/HP than my bike somewhere above 6.5k, with stock cam timings..

EDIT 12/16: Latest Dyno testing indicates that stock slide spring should be used if running non-MCM.

 

That's a sweet thread.. But is that jet kit and main going to just give me high RPM power? Because I use a lot of low end torque when I ride. I usually only use the high RPM for steep hill climbs. Otherwise I like to lug it up hills in higher gears, or have torque available to get over logs and rocks without having to pin it.

 

Ah, Torque curves are determined by things other than jet kits.. Obviously you can kill your TRQ/HP with improper fueling (less than optimal carb setups) ...

140/2N on the 2152 kit will simply give you proper fueling for your bike(FMF slipon + lidless) which means you will get all the TRQ and HP your engine + mods can make..

 

Now there is a unique situation that will confuse you once you've successfully done the carb setup - maybe I can help you to avoid it - for the first few rides, run it exactly as you always have.. Keep the revs below 7k and feel the increase in low-mid power and throttle response in the range that you normally use off road to "lug it up hills"... Once you feel that increase, find a long straight or long hill, snap and hold WOT from 6-7k and HANG ON! Let it rip to at least 9.5k..

The upper end (with the 140/2N setup) is now fully awakened and the incease there overshadows the gains down lower..

 

Ok, so here's the dilemma.. I bought the bike and it had a dyno kit already installed. But I'm not sure which one. I took it apart and he had a 132 main jet in there. Could very well be that kit you told me to get, I just dont know how to tell the needle, washers, and spring from stock. And I don't even know what the clip is.

My bike shop wants $84 for that kit. Im in Canada, so that seems like it'll be the cheapest price for me. The DJ140 main jet is only $4. So I'm tempted to just get the jet and save a ****load of money on parts I may already have installed...

If I took pics of the parts in my carb, with measurements, and posted, could you tell if they are from the correct kit? I do know the needle has one washer on it, in the 3rd position.