I can't seem to decide on whether to drill a hole or cut the pin. I know cutting the pin would be easier and more flexible in settings. However not sure how secure this would be with just the taping on the throttle side.
Drilling seems to be a cleaner better solution however a lot more involved in measuring/locating the holes etc.
Any links or suggestions on how both are done would be appreciated.

 

I've always just cut the pin... it is usually just a plastic nub. Nip it off with wire cutters or file it down. I've never had any trouble just using a wrap of tape under a control pod.

I have no desire to drill holes in new bars...lol My power tool skillz leave something to be desired...

 

Yes I am leaning towards the taping side of things. The hole if drilled will pretty much limit the location. I have also noticed the new grips I have are longer than the stock ones. So the current left side housing maybe off when considering stock locations.

 

Bit the bullet and glad I did. Just filed down the tabs. Put the Renthal handlebars on. They look great. What a major upgrade.
Will put the grips on tomorrow. Will use gorilla tape for the light and throttle housing.

 

I drilled mine because the alloy bars are adjustable for both rotation and length in the clip on mounts.. I highly recommend the shorty levers. They're abour $20 off ebay.The perches are thicker and feel great.

 

Whoa, never seen clip-ons on a KLX before. What steered you in that direction vs traditional bars?

 

It's my own idea. My KLX is actually the 3rd bike I've lowered with lightweight alloy clipons mounted directly onto the fork tubes.
Before the KLX I did my Grom...


...and my DRZ..

 

Tooter, ... your clipons are above the triples on those bikes, did you raise the forks in the triples to get room to add or order longer fork housings?
Usually are they not installed below the top triple?
If you raised the forks, that should really change the fork angle/ride height, did you notice a major change in handling?

 

I lowered the rear of all those three bikes and also lowered the front so as to retain similar handling characteristics as stock. A front and rear lowered chassis corners unbelievably well, as the rider is also lowered. I live in a canyon so all of my local riding is on winding roads. My KLX is really comfortable to ride with so much mass tucked in close between the axles.

I added fork extensions to the Grom because I only lowered the rear an inch and a half. So it only added a little more fork rake and front wheel trail like a dirt bike, and made the bike more stable at speed.



...and raised the forks on my DRZ and KLX. because I lowered the rear more and needed to lower the front.

Yes, you're right. Sport bikes frequently mount the clip ons under the triple. The bars also slant downward. I didn't want a hunched over sportbike riding position so I put the clamps on top. I also turned the clamps upside down and reversed the sides so the bars were perfectly flat just like regular bars. And putting them on the tops of the fork tubes is like having low flat "drag" bars with no rise. The riding position is VERY comfortable.



I always made certain the rear was lowered at least as much as the front to retain safe handling geometry. My KLX is rock solid steady even at 96 mph, and more stable than stock because everything is closer to the ground.