Drilled lift ports will allow a 7/64 drill bit to pass through it. The stock port is .1" or 2.58 mm.
To return a drilled port to stock, JB weld the hole shut and use a 3/32 (2.38 mm) bit to carefully redrill. Avoid any "wobble" while drilling, and the port will be restored. If concerned about wobble or drilling variances, use a 5/64 (1.98 mm) bit to allow yourself more "room for error" while drilling..
Doing this is mandatory for max performance with one of the lidless recipes below on my signature line.

It took me nearly an hour to locate this information in here - hence this thread, for easier data retrieval..

 

Just a thought... It might be easier to place your 3/32" drill bit in the hole while the JB weld cures. A light coat of shoe polish on the drill bit should prevent it from getting stuck.

I drilled my slide and basically did all the mods shown on the dpippin site...I am guessing a stock-sized hole is better for lidless?

 

Yes, slide drilling, slide spring replacement or modding, etc, is ok with the airbox lid on (snorkels or not) . However, the flow enhancement (and power potential) of a lidless airbox is so profound that a different setup is required.. Either one of the "Dyno Tuning.." links below provides the two recipes for running lidless..