The KACR may have different timing with the e-start bikes. The kick only KLX300 has it and starts with no issues, and maybe easier due to the compression release it provides. I know my Klx250 started easier after the cam mod when I retimed the KACR per Marcellinos instructions. I will be interested to see how it kick starts wth the KACR disabled.

 

Re-positioning (As per Marcelino) or deactivation provides instant starting if all else is good. What is unknown is if pulling the spring will allow "instant" kick starting as well. Assuming the owner/operator knows the proper method for kick starting a 4 stroke (You certainly never "just kick it"..), my bet is it will..

BTW, having kick started open class 2 and 4 stroke racers for decades, yall may not know that kicking over a 500cc two stroke racer ( KX500, CR500, etc..) also requires methodology...


I need a new diaper..

 

You got that right....LOL I raced open class 2-strokes for many many years back in the day. No compression release either. My Maico 490 required a milk crate to stand on in order to kick it over. And with the fear of kick back, yeah, wasn't fun, but it was all part of it. There was no other way, but to figure it out. Yeah, 100% methodology. If you didn't "know" how, you'd Never get it started. It's like when I'm fishing and people ask me what I'm using, I just say Technique.....

 

I would think there is some sort of compression release on the XR, kind of like the old XL/XR600s had. Trick was to push the kick start until it came up against compression, then let the lever all the way to the top, setting the compression release, then kick down like you mean it. If a rider just tried to "slap kick" an XR600 they could get hurt real good if it kicked back. The big singles aren't anything like kick starting a two stroke.

The difference was they had a compression release that worked off the kick start, not on the cam that was rpm operated like the Kawasakis. He needs to bring it up to TDC, let the lever back to the top, then kick like he means it. If that doesn't work, he either needs to figure out the throttle setting or what else is wrong with the bike. That on the XL600R I rode back in 83 worked without pain and few kicks.

By the way, I'd recommend to disable the compression release on the KLXs by removing the spring. Then when you go to kick start it, bring it up to TDC compression, then just ease it over past TDC. Let the lever back up, then give a good solid kick. That is essentially what riders with the old 500 singles do with the manual compression release. It is just quicker with the manual release. I did exactly what I mentioned here in starting my SR500, easing just past TDC using the kick start, just to know it could be done.

Another trick to get the same effect, roll the bike backward in gear until it hits compression, now kick it.

I think the compression release is not positioned properly for kick starting and really isn't needed.

 

I've tried teaching proper kik staurght'in.. Watchin a peep kik and kik, then I be goin over to start'r up with one whack.. Some fellas never "gitit".. If yer just akikin upon er, you wastin time..
You kno yu gottin it when yer math be lookin like 1 kik = 1 start..

 

Spoken like a true big singles rider!

Do it wrong and one can end up with a knee cap in one's mouth.

 

Can anyone that owns a klx300 report how hard they are or are not to kick start? They Have the KACR and predate our bikes.

 

My '07 starts just fine. Cold, it takes about 3 properly timed kicks. Its' KACR is set too aggressive as it's hard to find TDC on the compression stroke. In fact, sometimes I can't - and have to guess.. As expected, it does not start well if you just start kicking it. As with all larger 4 strokes, you will only get it started if you kick at the top, or just after, TDC on a compression stroke. "Just kicking it" will get it started when you, by chance, get a properly timed kick - Also, if the best you can do is to just kick the hell outta it until it starts, you'll need a complete replacement kick starter assembly (+ all bearings and bushings) on the shelf at all times, cause the entire kicker system is known to be weakly designed - you'll be breaking yours constantly. Even the small amount of time that mine has been abused by my kids and friends is evident in the mechanism as a slight sloppiness and looseness..

When warm or hot, it starts w 1 "proper" kick.

If I ever decide to do-up the MCM on it, that KACR is going bye bye..