THE BIG GUN IS HERE!!
Guest
Posts: n/a
It came just while ago, complete system shipped straight from big gun looks like, looks like it was just built. Now what are exactly the things I need to do? New main jet 128 or 125, new needle and where do I put it? Those are what I think, what specifically else needs done? What exactly is the needle anyways? Thanks, Travis
Travis,
I could do the whole thing, but it is already done. I hate to re-invent the wheel that is already rolling down the road.
Here's an excellent article, complete with pictures on all the mods to the KLX250S. It goes step by step all the way through. Gives detailed instructions on how to get to the carb, what to do when you get there, what parts you need. It is the most complete procedure that I have seen on the subject.
There is nothing more you need, just follow all that he tells.
Hope this helps!
KLX250S Mod Update Procedure!
Let me know how it turns out!
I could do the whole thing, but it is already done. I hate to re-invent the wheel that is already rolling down the road.
Here's an excellent article, complete with pictures on all the mods to the KLX250S. It goes step by step all the way through. Gives detailed instructions on how to get to the carb, what to do when you get there, what parts you need. It is the most complete procedure that I have seen on the subject.
There is nothing more you need, just follow all that he tells.
Hope this helps!
KLX250S Mod Update Procedure!
Let me know how it turns out!
Guest
Posts: n/a
Marty- It says nothing about drilling out the slide like I've read so many do. Is this important? Have you re-jetted your carb yet? Other than that, it doesn't look too tough. Do you think it could be done without removing the carb?
Some people have done the mods with the carb in the bike but from what I've read that is even more of a pain than actually removing it, personally I'd prefer to have it on the bench with a towel under it to catch any little parts that I should happen to drop. I too was curious about drilling out the slide, it also seems like that page just trails off and then was locked.
i ordered my big gun system yesterday and to day i got an email saying its back ordered, and the manufacturer didnt give a ETA for it ... ordered from bikebandit.com ... man that sucks, but i also ordered all the carb rejetting parts! so at least i will be able to do something.
Drilling the slide is a simple task.
If you look at the bottom of the slide you will see two holes.
The one in the center of the slide is where the needle slides through - DO NOT DRILL THIS HOLE!
The hole nearest the edge of the slide is the one you open up to 7/64ths in size.
This hole is what provides the 'signal' to the carb to open the slide. On a CVK34 carb, the engine vacuum is used to determine how much to open the slide once the throttle is opened up. The hole you drill sits closer to the intake valve and thus can sense the amount of vacuum the engine is producing. The amount of vacuum needs to be sent to the chamber that reside on top of the diaphram. This hole is what lets that vacuum get there. The bigger the hole, the quicker the slide opens. Now, don't get carried away, put that 1/2 inch drill bit away, as you can go too big. More than 7/64ths and the throttle gets very critical. When you touch it, it jumps both on acceleration and deceleration. It can become too touchy. I've chose 7/64ths as it seems to improve the throttle response, but not to the point of being obnoxious and hard to work the throttle smoothly.
Hope this is what you're looking for.
Any other questions, let me know.
If you look at the bottom of the slide you will see two holes.

The one in the center of the slide is where the needle slides through - DO NOT DRILL THIS HOLE!
The hole nearest the edge of the slide is the one you open up to 7/64ths in size.
This hole is what provides the 'signal' to the carb to open the slide. On a CVK34 carb, the engine vacuum is used to determine how much to open the slide once the throttle is opened up. The hole you drill sits closer to the intake valve and thus can sense the amount of vacuum the engine is producing. The amount of vacuum needs to be sent to the chamber that reside on top of the diaphram. This hole is what lets that vacuum get there. The bigger the hole, the quicker the slide opens. Now, don't get carried away, put that 1/2 inch drill bit away, as you can go too big. More than 7/64ths and the throttle gets very critical. When you touch it, it jumps both on acceleration and deceleration. It can become too touchy. I've chose 7/64ths as it seems to improve the throttle response, but not to the point of being obnoxious and hard to work the throttle smoothly.
Hope this is what you're looking for.
Any other questions, let me know.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Marty-
Looks like from the picture that there are three holes. Also, what about just going 1/8th and calling it a day. That would be 8/64th's if I can remember my fractions I believe. Thanks for all your help as it is greatly appreciated. Travis
Looks like from the picture that there are three holes. Also, what about just going 1/8th and calling it a day. That would be 8/64th's if I can remember my fractions I believe. Thanks for all your help as it is greatly appreciated. Travis
i canceled my order from bikebandit.com, i contacted big gun direct, and they had it so i dont know why that site said it was backordered... o welll should be gettin it in a week or so....
Guest
Posts: n/a
ORIGINAL: EMS_0525
i canceled my order from bikebandit.com, i contacted big gun direct, and they had it so i dont know why that site said it was backordered... o welll should be gettin it in a week or so....
i canceled my order from bikebandit.com, i contacted big gun direct, and they had it so i dont know why that site said it was backordered... o welll should be gettin it in a week or so....
http://www.motorcycleparts.biz/plugi...egory_Code=MCF
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



