Anyone with experience building motors - advice plz?
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 229
From: MA
Cylinder head allen bolts get torqued twice first at 11 then 34. Mabey thats what your thinking of?. Valve caps are 8.5
http://klx250s.suncup.net/ I got my info from here.
Look under colum "Refrences" colum
Torque specs
Valve adjustment chart
Chapter 4 Engine top end.
http://klx250s.suncup.net/ I got my info from here.
Look under colum "Refrences" colum
Torque specs
Valve adjustment chart
Chapter 4 Engine top end.
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1st Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 370
From: So Cal
CL, I just got my kit in the mail today. I plan on installing it on Friday along with some other things. Please post the jetting that works for you. Even though I have a DynoJet kit, I imagine they are similar.
Put the airbox lid back on. It's a common misconception that it's good to remove them. They are there for reasons other than keeping water out. The airbox is part of a "sonic dead air space" that is tuned for the back pressure waves from the intake tract while the intake valves are closed. The airbox volume is tuned for that carb diameter and head porting. I personally would never run an engine with the airbox lid removed...
I want an engine that is tractable at all rpms. A drag racing or road race engine that spends it's life wide open, that's different. You would run the bell mouths open for maximum power. To get an engine to have smooth power at all rpms calls for proper back pressure at both ends of the airflow, the pipe and the airbox. Run it without a snorkle or with the KDX200 snorkle, but I cannot be convinced removing the lid is good. If you ran an exhaust open pipe 2 ft long, would that flow the maximum air? No. The back pressure wave isn't tuned correctly.
The airfilter surface area is enormous. Taking the lid off doesn't flow any more air.
I want an engine that is tractable at all rpms. A drag racing or road race engine that spends it's life wide open, that's different. You would run the bell mouths open for maximum power. To get an engine to have smooth power at all rpms calls for proper back pressure at both ends of the airflow, the pipe and the airbox. Run it without a snorkle or with the KDX200 snorkle, but I cannot be convinced removing the lid is good. If you ran an exhaust open pipe 2 ft long, would that flow the maximum air? No. The back pressure wave isn't tuned correctly.
The airfilter surface area is enormous. Taking the lid off doesn't flow any more air.
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,538
From: Connecticut
1st Gear Member
Ok, so it was 8.5lbs which is what I did..
Bake threw me off mentioning they're torqued in steps.. I know the four main allen head bolts need that, not the cam cap bolts..
Ok, I feel better now
Bake threw me off mentioning they're torqued in steps.. I know the four main allen head bolts need that, not the cam cap bolts..
Ok, I feel better now
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 287
A few misguided statements IMHO. Your airboot (USA model) is an afterthought. It's square for petes sake. With the airboot Kawasaki intended this bike to have, (think Hydro dynamics) there are definite performance gains to be had when removing the lid of the airbox completely. Fact.
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,538
From: Connecticut
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Alright, first 25 miles are on. The bike feels real good.. I'm thinking it might be a tad rich, but it is running great so I'm not going to touch anything till I can get it to a dyno with a sniffer..
But yeah, runs real nice. I think I need to put the stock front sprocket back on as it seems to run through the first few gears real fast
I am going to go now and change the oil and pull the plug - see how it all looks..
But yeah, runs real nice. I think I need to put the stock front sprocket back on as it seems to run through the first few gears real fast
I am going to go now and change the oil and pull the plug - see how it all looks..
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,538
From: Connecticut
1st Gear Member
Alright - 50 miles down - bike feels great. The oil almost looked new - no metal flakes of any sort were seen. I'm almost positive it's running pretty rich - going to pull the plug in a few to check it out.
I wish there was a dyno place with a sniffer near me - I can't find one unless I want to drive over an hour.
Also - I am definitely going to put the stock sprocket back on. I'm in 6th gear before I know it. 6th feels like stock 3rd or 4th was as far as the pull.
Surprised me a bit - was in second around 4k and rolled the throttle - the front tire literally shot up to the sky with no pulling on the handle bars...
Perfect
EDIT: had to change the sig
I wish there was a dyno place with a sniffer near me - I can't find one unless I want to drive over an hour.
Also - I am definitely going to put the stock sprocket back on. I'm in 6th gear before I know it. 6th feels like stock 3rd or 4th was as far as the pull.
Surprised me a bit - was in second around 4k and rolled the throttle - the front tire literally shot up to the sky with no pulling on the handle bars...
Perfect
EDIT: had to change the sig
Last edited by CousinLarry; Mar 17, 2009 at 10:10 PM.
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,392
From: So Cal
1st Gear Member
I'm inclined to side with WestOz, I tried running with the airbox lid (no snorkel) back on to see if I might gain some low end torque. But it ran really poorly. It is probably pretty rich, but without the lid it runs excellent pulling from bottom to the rev limiter. Maybe at higher elevations its better....