Son of a B!tch. I just looked at my tear down pics and realized I forgot the L side alignment pin. Well that totally ruined my day.

 

Good reason to take pics other than just to share!

 

IT'S ALLIIIIIIVVVEEE!!!!

Just started it, started right up!!! I let it idle till the fan kicked in, and shut it off.. Going to go put the plastics back on, start it again and get it moving a bit.. WOOHOO

I hope it all works out.. I went with the 132 jet, turned the mixture screw in one turn (1.5 out now I believe) and kept the needle the same.

 

I just saw this thread, I think you made the right decision, Cuz. Glad you got it sorted.

 

Got the bike running, did a couple heat cycles already, and took it up to about 5k rpm's in 4th gear.

I'd love to track my milage for the break-in, but my speedo cable is busted. Anyone have one for sale?

 

How is it running with the CVK? I would not really worry too much about tracking the miles, just ease it up in the RPM's over the next few rides, and don't ride at steady throttle. After about 10 rides like that, depending on time length of the rides, let her have it.

 

Yah, that's my plan

Not sure how it is with the CVK yet - literally I just went up and down my street a few times at quarter throttle.

I was pretty amazed when it fired up that it sounds almost identical to the 250! Maybe it's the FMF that's making all the sound. I'm sure once I can open it up a little and put some load on it it'll definitely shout a little louder

 

When I did mine Bill told me they had the best results with a 145 or so main jet. I ended up with a 150 once it was all said and done. He was talking about his pumper carb though.

 

Put the airbox lid back on. It's a common misconception that it's good to remove them. They are there for reasons other than keeping water out. The airbox is part of a "sonic dead air space" that is tuned for the back pressure waves from the intake tract while the intake valves are closed. The airbox volume is tuned for that carb diameter and head porting. I personally would never run an engine with the airbox lid removed...

I want an engine that is tractable at all rpms. A drag racing or road race engine that spends it's life wide open, that's different. You would run the bell mouths open for maximum power. To get an engine to have smooth power at all rpms calls for proper back pressure at both ends of the airflow, the pipe and the airbox. Run it without a snorkle or with the KDX200 snorkle, but I cannot be convinced removing the lid is good. If you ran an exhaust open pipe 2 ft long, would that flow the maximum air? No. The back pressure wave isn't tuned correctly.
The airfilter surface area is enormous. Taking the lid off doesn't flow any more air.

 

Hmmm, interesting.... I'll throw it back on tomorrow..

Hey Bake - in your thread you said:

"3. The cam bridge that bolts down the cams has the bolts numbered in the order you tighten them, and then do it in 2 stages. Make sure you follow that sequence and get the torque on the bolts correct."

I'm thinking back, and I only did those bolts to 8.5lb.

I'm looking in the manual, and in the writeup it says to do them in order, 1-8, and to tq them to 8.5lb...

But up front of the chapter in the diagram, it almost looks like those bolts need 34lbs?? Hmmm...

Do you remember what you did?